q & a with elaine cicora

We are lucky to have Elaine Cicora’s palate in Cleveland. She has been educating and enticing us about the Cleveland food scene through the years. And no surprise here, she is the recipient of a James Beard award for her work in journalism; specifically for the piece she did on Michael Ruhlman.

1. What is the first thing you notice when you walk into a restaurant? Actually, there are several things that hit me pretty much at once: The aromas, which ought to be mouthwatering; cleanliness, which ought to be impeccable; and the host’s or hostess’s greeting, which ought to be prompt, warm, welcoming and sincere.

2. What restaurant do you recommend to people visiting Cleveland? There are a handful of spots that I think give a real sense of Cleveland: Lola for the food, the location, and for Michael and Liz Symon’s celebrity cred; Flying Fig for the food, location, and the sassy spin on local ingredients; Pier W for the view; Sokolowski’s for an old-style, Eastern-European carbohydrate overload (or, for those with access to a car, Babushka’s Kitchen in Northfield Center, for the same reason); and for a cheap downtown lunch with lots of quirky charm, Teahouse Noodles on E. 6th or Otto Moser’s, on Playhouse Square.

3. What restaurant do you miss? Boukairs, my childhood favorite in the Hanna Building, downtown. A grilled cheese sandwich with bacon and tomato, a tossed salad with that wonderful, homemade, Lebanese-style lemon dressing, and one of those towering ice-cream sundaes — the Chic of Araby probably, with raspberry sorbet, coffee ice cream, marshmallow cream, toasted pistachios, and gobs of that ultra -dense whipped cream…oh, mama!

4. What do you love and hate about your job? Getting paid to do my two favorite things — eating and writing! What’s not to love? Seriously, though, I love the complete editorial freedom I have to write an honest review; and the chance this job has given me to know the local scene and the very talented, dedicated men and women who make it work. Not so keen about the fact that I have to walk a couple miles every day — sun, snow, heat, or cold! — to burn off all the calories, though; or the fact that for every really great meal I get to enjoy, there are two or three that scare the hell out of me!

5. What’s your last meal on Earth? Well, this isn’t entirely local, but here goes: From Zuni Cafe in San Francisco, some fresh Pacific oysters on the half shell, followed by Zuni’s impeccable Caesar Salad (so amazingly pure and wholesome, with the most delicate, sweet, freshly picked romaine I’ve ever tasted– and lots of anchovies!); a French baguette from Great Lakes Baking Company, in Hudson, with some Plugra butter; homemade pappardelle with wild-boar bolognese, from Michaelangelo’s in Little Italy (I’m an Italian girl to the core!); rosemary frites from Lola (and maybe one of Michael’s grilled ribeye steaks, too — you did say this was my last meal on earth, right?); sliced tomatoes (from my garden), along with Parmesan-coated Ohio sweet corn on the cob, from Crop (this only applies if I die in July or August, though!); a bottle (or two) of Opus One; and a chocolate malt from Rosati’s Custard. Ideally, this would all be eaten in a sunny courtyard, and shared with my family and friends. Then, let me die right away, before the calories catch up with me!

6. What hidden restaurant or gem have Clevelanders yet to discover? I’m always amazed by how quickly local foodies suss out the newest spots; it’s hard to hide anything from them! Still, I think Crop, in the Warehouse District, should be better known — and probably will be, soon. And Superior Pho, in Asia Town, is still overshadowed by some of the other, bigger Vietnamese spots — and it’s a gem.

7. Where will Cleveland be culinary wise 10 years from now? That’s a tough call. On the whole, I think the trend toward small, contemporary, chef-driven restaurants — featuring modest portions of modern-American cuisine, moderate prices, and a hip, but casual vibe — will continue. Formal “special occasion” dining will remain dead. A kitchen filled with local, sustainably grown ingredients will be essential; and vegetarian cooking may finally come into its own. I’m guessing the scene will still be relatively small, but increasingly au courant, adopting national trends more quickly than what we see at this point. But on the other hand, if our economy continues its downward spiral, lunch at Olive Garden may be the pinnacle of indulgence for most Cleveland foodies a decade from now.

8. What’s your favorite comfort food? My homemade Cincinnati-style chili, based loosely on a recipe from the cookbook Square Meals, by Jane and Michael Stern.

9. Why do so many indie restaurants close their doors each year in our city? Lots of reasons, including poor planning, bad location, under-capitalization, and frank mismanagement. Also, the scenario in which a talented chef enters into a financial partnership with a group of non-savvy backers looking for a fast ROI has been the death of several good spots over the years. But mostly, the competition out there is brutal. Our crummy economy and shrinking population means that we don’t have the kind of large, affluent pool of diners who can support a big-city restaurant scene; and without the name recognition and economies of scale — in purchasing and advertising — that the chains enjoy, many independents find themselves hemorrhaging money.

10. If you could have one chef leave their post and become your personal home chef, who would it be? Hmmm…this week, I’m feeling partial to Dante Boccuzzi, who recently opened Dante, in Valley View. His food is vibrant, engaging, smart, and robust; his spirit is generous, yet intense; he has a sly sense of humor –always a great quality in a chef; he could sing and play his Les Paul for me while the pasta cooked and the salumi cured; and no, it doesn’t hurt that he’s easy on the eyes, in a dark, moody, Italian sort of way!

11. If you could review one restaurant, anywhere in the world, which one would it be? I would love to go back in time and dine — and review — Le Pavillion, the legendary French restaurant in NYC that began as part of the 1939 World’s Fair. The restaurant’s classic mid-century French cuisine, the huge buzz it had in the country, the lure it presented for the rich and famous of the time…it just stands out in my mind as a spot of mythic proportions, and I would have loved to have experienced it for myself.

10 Comments

  1. Anonymous
    Posted November 15, 2007 at 2:06 pm | Permalink

    Nice meaty q & a. I always look forward to reading any review by Cicora. I especially love the “last supper” question. In fact, there’s a gorgeous new book I’d like to own by photographer Melanie Dunea based on that single question called “My Last Supper: 50 Great Chefs and Their Final Meals (Portraits, Interviews and Recipes)”. HRobb

  2. Anonymous
    Posted November 15, 2007 at 2:07 pm | Permalink

    Hey – I love your blog. I live in Cleveland and am always looking for a good meal…Plus my friend Xani writes a food blog in Baltimore – she recently visited and did a review on Melt.

    I love that Symon won! Very exciting news for Cleveland – how do you feel this will change the Cleveland food scene?
    - Hayley

    http://www.blackcoffeeandadonut.com

  3. michelle v
    Posted November 15, 2007 at 2:10 pm | Permalink

    Love that idea for a book! Would make a fun hostess gift, too.

  4. michelle v
    Posted November 15, 2007 at 2:14 pm | Permalink

    Thanks! I think it means I’m going to have a harder time getting into Lolita, especially for happy hour! I’ve already heard about people coming from nearby states to check out Lola. Symon loves Cleveland and enjoyes sreading the word about our city. I think this can only mean good things for the city and all the chefs. I think we’ll get more visitors and will garner positive national attention. Which will hopefully start to improve the local economy. Although, I think the national pubs have already done a nice job this year recognizing Cleveland, like Oprah and Food & Wine with several nods to places like Momocho, Flying Fig and of course, Lola.

  5. rockandroller
    Posted November 15, 2007 at 2:38 pm | Permalink

    I too hope Crop starts getting busier, they are serving some great food. I can’t believe anyone who is a food critic would recommend Sokolowski’s though. Big portions of tasteless, overly greasy food or things covered in margarine is just not good. I’ve never had a decent meal there and have been there several times. After the No Reservations episode, some friends and family asked me to take them there, which I did, 2 separate visits and I said nothing about the place before we went except that it was a Cleveland favorite. Both visits, everyone left their plates mostly full, several feeling sick the rest of the afternoon, being very disappointed in the quality and taste of the food. I just don’t get it.

  6. Alexa
    Posted November 15, 2007 at 6:29 pm | Permalink

    Love that you did questions with Elaine! I worked at Scene for a couple of years and my clients would BEG, literally BEG for her to review them. Then they would be so upset when she would speak the truth if it wasn’t in their favor.

    They asked for it I say!

    Elaine is tough, but I’m exactly the same way when I visit establishments. If you please her you know you are doing something right.

    Crop is AWESOME… and because of it’s location one would think it would be hoppin’ but I think people are still confused with the whole Johnny’s thing. (is it still Johnny’s or not?) Crop has hands down the best foodie Browns tailgating set up. Right on W 6th they are grilling their corn on the cob and gourmet burgers. worth checking out.

  7. Anonymous
    Posted November 29, 2007 at 6:36 pm | Permalink

    Palate.

  8. michelle v
    Posted November 29, 2007 at 7:42 pm | Permalink

    Good catch – thanks! I have a poor habit of doing that.

  9. Anonymous
    Posted July 19, 2008 at 2:18 pm | Permalink

    I went to Crop Bistro last night with my girlfriend after coming there the night before. We both had second thoughts about eating after looking at the prices on the menu and not understanding half of what was on there but our server I think it was Dee or something. Asked us to give him a moment that he was going to have a little taste of what Crop was about made up for us. So a few minutes later he came out with one of the Chef’s that whipped us up a really cool app. I’m going to be honest if it wasn’t for our server taking the extra step to try and open our palates to new things we wouldn’t have eaten there we later went on to have the calamari and the servers favorite entree the salmon dish which were both awesome. When went back last night because of our experience the first time and the same server was bartending talk about multi talented again me and my girlfriend weren’t sure of trying any of the fancy cocktails they serve so instead of him letting us order one with the risk of not liking it he made us a small sip of the one we were interested in. We will definitely be coming back several times to come. Great food great exceptional service.

  10. Karen Bullock
    Posted September 16, 2014 at 6:14 pm | Permalink

    Wish someone would resurrect in Playhouse Square a restaurant just like the old Boukair’s with its brightly colored neon lights along the walls and great ice cream treats. With all the old and new restaurants there these days and the active theatres, it would probably be a welcome addition.

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