As I’ve said before, I’m a ridiculously hard critic of Italian food. I’m not a chef and I’ve never spent a day in Italy (sigh). But I’m 100% Italian (actually, half Sicilian/half Italian) and I have a grandma and mom that know their way around a kitchen and made daily scratch Italian dishes for as long as I can remember and beat this notion of authenticity into us on a daily basis. Anyone who grew up like this and never knew you could actually buy marinara sauce, gets to play critic.  

For me, the best Italian I’ve had so far is at Michalangelo’s(though I still miss Battuto). But that’s not to say others don’t offer great dishes: bucatini all’ amatriciana @ Baricelli; Rocco’s famous little meatballs, among others)

And now, I’d add Osteria to the list. Was it the most amazing Italian food I’ve had? No. But it was good, surprisingly good – especially the marinara sauce that accompanied the mussels. I used the hot, crusty bread to soak up as much as I could. Very good sauce. And my osso buco was enjoyable, too. Perhaps not as tender as I would have hoped for, but a good dish nonetheless. And the pastas we sampled – quite satisfying, albeit not waist friendly (just too bad the pastas aren’t made in-house – all pasta comes from Gallucci’s, which kinda seems like cheating).

The other drawback for me was the space itself. While I really liked the overall vibe – borderline cool sitting below St. Clair and the overall intimate/cozy feeling inside (great for a date night), the space itself needs a good freshening up. Not a major overhaul, but a few updates would go a long way.

You can read the full review here. In short, I liked it and wish I made it in sooner. I can definitely see us heading back soon, especially on a cold, snowy night (which will be here before we know it). In fact, I think on our next visit I’m going to bypass the menu and let the chef put together a tasting for us. As our server shared as soon as we sat down, they are here to feed you. If you’ll let them, they will make an adventure out of it and put together a tasting for you based on what you’re craving and how hungry you are. Word of advice – go hungry. In fact, I left there feeling the same way I used to after a dinner at my grandma’s house where her only purpose in life was to feed you. Those are the meals when it was nice to wear maternity pants.

1. Top five spices every home cook should have? 1. Black peppercorns. They are a basic spice in which all other spices, flavors and seasonings are based off of.  2. Cinnamon. If you are baking it is a necessity and can be used in savory dishes as well.  3. Cumin Seed. I love it. I use it in almost everything I make and so should all of you!  4. Cayenne Pepper. Used in very small doses it adds a nice heat to things.  5. Fennel Seed. I love it as well – it can be used in so many different ways.

2. Favorite thing to make? It is a tie between cheesecake and pasta.  I love cheesecake because good cheesecake is very technique driven.  I hate using any fillers for structure such as flour so the process is what makes it so light and perfect, i.e. no browning, no cracking, and cooling  it properly.  Everyone who eats it says it is so light. I personally hate cheesecake and cream cheese – they are vile substances.  But I love to cook with it.  I love pasta because it is truly a labor of love; really good pasta dough gets me excited, in a completely professional manner of course!  I love working with pasta dough.

3. Least favorite thing to make? Chicken sausage.  Yesterday was the second time I made chicken sausage for our new late summer menu (Note: this q&a was originally completed in August). It came out great, in fact it is amazing the texture and seasoning is perfect but the mess is insane.  Pork sausage is no picnic either, but the chicken sausage has a knack of being just sticky and getting everywhere.  It took me two hours to clean and sanitize the mixer, grinder, ceiling, shoes, my left ear.  Just a mess.

4. If you could cook for one person who would it be? Gandhi. Hands down the easiest meal I would ever have to make.  No prep, no service, no clean up! Don’t forget to tip your server Mr. Gandhi!

5. Favorite thing about Cleveland and what drives you nuts? The Cleveland Browns are my favorite thing about Cleveland, (I know I am a glutton for punishment.)  I also love that there is so much culinary talent in this city.  We have a ton of great chefs and great independent restaurants.  The thing that drives me nuts about our great city is the abundance of chain restaurants and the perception that large portion size equals quality and good value.  Chain restaurants homogenize everything and take away the cultural and distinct influences of northeast Ohio.  I realize they serve a specific niche and do so well, but it still drives me nuts.

6. Top five songs at a dinner party? Safety dance/Men without hats. I want my guests to know how important kitchen safety is to me. Cuts like a knife/Brian Adams. I want my guests to know that my knives are sharp and truly cut like I say they do. Summertime Rolls/Janes Addiction. If I am cooking at home for others then it is summer, I am grilling, and this song rules. Redemption Song/Bob Marley. That is how I feel when all our guests beat our butt in cornhole! Red Hot Chili Peppers (any song). They are a great summer band.  You hear them you need to be doing something, why not cook and eat.

7. Favorite Cleveland Restaurant? Like I said before I feel Cleveland has an abundance of great independent restaurants all with talented chefs.  If I have to choose one though I would pick Downtown 140 in Hudson.  It is small, charming and their chef Shawn Monday can cook his butt off.  PS – my wife works there so I may be a tad bias.

8. What restaurant do I miss? Without a doubt, Dante.  I have eaten there on numerous occasions and never had a bad moment.  Chef Dante is really talented and I look forward to eating at Dante again in Tremont very soon.

9. What restaurants have Clevelanders yet to discover? I am going to cheat here.  I know they have discovered Baricelli Inn but I think it is time they rediscover it.  I know I am really bias but I am very proud of the passion, and skill that goes into every aspect of our food.  We don’t cut any corners – our kitchen is a completely scratch kitchen.  Our menu changes seven to eight times a year.  I do all pastries and desserts in-house including ice cream and sorbet.  We are really attempting to make fine dining a casual experience and not make it stuffy or take ourselves way too serious.  I want our guests to feel like we are having fun doing what we do because we are. I love it.  We are a destination restaurant for sure but we are also priced to be frequented more often than every five years.  Come in and get a glass of wine and a cheese board from our affinage, grab some cappuccino with dessert, or an app with a martini.  We are here to serve you Cleveland!

10. Last meal on earth? Thanksgiving dinner!  I am a mashed potato freak and that is the best time to eat them, plus the turkey isn’t half bad either.

11. How old were you when you started cooking and why did you decide to become a chef? I remember vividly going to my grandfather’s house and he would always be cooking either pizza, pasta, or the “sauce”.  I have probably heard grandpa is making the sauce about five thousand times in my life.  To tell you the truth, I don’t even remember if the sauce was good! My grandpa died 13 years ago, but when he made sauce it was an event.  It took 24 hours it seemed, but when it was nearing completion all his children and their families would gather waiting for the sauce and playing poker, which is where I learned pocket aces are a very good thing.  But the thing I took from that was that food was special and meant to be enjoyed by the people you enjoy being around.  My grandfather didn’t know what bruniose was or how to make hollandaise, but man could he cook, and often I would try to help him in his efforts.  So that is where the seed was planted.  Ironically enough I really decided to become a chef because I always found cooking to be relaxing and calming. Ha – that’s funny!

12. If I weren’t a chef you would be? A football coach.

13. If you could be any other chef for a day? Ferran Adria.  The way he thinks food is so interesting.  He can take someone’s perception of an ingredient and completely twist it and change every molecule of it and it still retain the essential essence of the ingredient.  He is just so good that it is truly humbling.

14. If you could visit any restaurant in the world? El Bulli, Ferran Adria’s restaurant in Spain.  Spain is now the forefront of the new avan garde movement in food.  Most of Adria’s “students” have taken up residence there and are now creating some very interesting and exciting food.  Their molecular gastronomic creations would never sell in Cleveland but I think it is good that chefs are thinking way outside the box. 

15. Favorite TV show? Househunters. I can’t explain it but that show is mesmerizing.

16. Favorite kitchen gadget? Immersion blender (me too!)

17. Favorite shortcut when cooking?  I really don’t take any shortcuts at work.  Everything we make we do the right way.  That is how I believe you are truly ready to become a head chef.  Do the right things the right way no matter who is watching or if anyone would notice otherwise.  That is the only way I know how to do this job.  Even at home I find myself not cutting too many corners. 

18. Signature dish? At Baricelli we really don’t have a signature dish.  We are constantly changing our menu based on seasons.  Our menu changes are truly comprehensive as well so we don’t have many holdovers from old menus.  My mantra is to never repeat what we have done in the past.  So I make sure we are always trying fresh ideas with seasonal ingredients.

Seriously? While I recognize I never actually read the article so I don’t know all its contents or writer’s point of view, but just the thought makes me scratch my head. There is so much to do, discover and experience in this town – well beyond the Rock Hall (amazes me how many people think this is all we have going for us). And what’s even more surprising to me is how many people call Cleveland home and are still unaware of what’s right in their backyard. Take a day and be a tourist in your own city. You’ll be positively overwhelmed and impressed. But bored? No.

Case in point this past Wednesday night. We headed down to the Botanical Gardens for their wildly popular Gourmet in the Garden series (truly – these sell out fast and early). If you’re not familiar, from 6 p.m. to 7 p.m., for $5 a group of 50 or so watch one of our local chefs demo a dish, then sample. On this night it was chef Paul Minnillo from Baricelli and his executive chef Chris, who was demoing a chilled peach soup with basil and strawberries (peaches from a Chardon farm by way of Fresh Fork Market – apparently all the snow in Chardon is good for snow days and making great peaches).

Minnillo, who reminds me of my Italian uncles with his mannerisms and storytelling, first chatted with the crowd about Cleveland, his future thoughts for the restaurant and Inn (perhaps a spa someday?), a brief education on cheese and his retail offering and his fellow local chefs. Chris then shared how to make this super simple soup at home and finally, we got to sample for ourselves – delicious. Did I mention this was just $5?

From there we walked around Wade Oval to enjoy Wade Oval Wednesdays, the free weekly concert series in the summer (Roberto Ocasio’s Latin Jazz Project was performing). How great that we have something like this. One any given Wednesday in the summer, expect to find families, couples and people of all ages hanging out on the oval, enjoying a picnic, some cocktails and the atmosphere.

After listening to the band for awhile, and knowing a small sample of soup wasn’t enough to call dinner, we decided to head to Baricelli for more.

During Minnillo’s introduction earlier, he shared that he’s been working hard for the past 10 years to get the restaurant out of that dining destination/special occasion category, but doesn’t feel he’s having much success. I admit that for years that was my perception of the restaurant, until I went there. And part of it is the mansion itself which houses the restaurant and Inn (it does scream special occasion) and the long history of high ticket items. But in recent years, he has lowered prices and even offers half orders of pasta (my 1/2 bucatini amatriciana was just $12 and is plenty of pasta for one person) as well as great/affordable dinners during Lent. To be honest, I’ve never sat in the dining room so I’m not sure what vibe that gives off, we much prefer the patio. And that does not feel pretentious or fine dining to me – more like casual, quaint and a must for al fresco dining.

Beyond my pasta and a half order of basil fazzoletti for Jamie, I had the beet salad with walnut-crusted camembert, watercress, a hard boiled egg and vincotta (absolutely wonderful salad) and the chilled peach soup for Jamie. We also each had a glass of wine.

I will say this, while we thoroughly enjoyed our meal and sitting on the patio in the heart of Little Italy and ourselves don’t view Baricelli as destination dining, if Minnillo truly wants to change people’s perceptions, he needs to make a few more revisions to the menu beyond the pastas. One big area that did bother us was the wine list. If one were just to peruse the list, they’d assume this is a high-priced, high-occasion type of place. There is only one bottle under $60, a couple glass options in the $10/$12 range and the rest is priced in the hundreds. Personally, I would love to see a more approachable wine list with several bottle options under $5o – even $40, as well as more glass choices, too.

And that was our Wednesday. A demo, music and fab dinner in one of Cleveland’s great neighborhoods. If that’s boring, I give up.

Soup or Salad
Rainbow trout, skate or seafood fettuccine
Creme brulee or sorbets

WKYC posted a guide for local fish fries, mostly at churches. If you know of any other good places to try, please share.

1. Tell us a little about your background. Well, classic story. I started in the kitchen, and then made the switch to the dining room years back. I graduated from the Culinary Institute of America with my Bachelor’s degree, apprenticed under Charlie Trotter in Chicago, who helped me make my way over to France. Once there I worked at two great establishments: Jean Bardet in Tours and Lucas Carton in Paris. Once I arrived back in the states I worked in NYC at Picholine, Le Cirque and Chanterelle. Chanterelle made the greatest impression on me. Owners, Karen and David Waltuck, have really given me wisdom and many tools for success. Now I’m here in Cleveland.

I don’t consider myself a cheese expert; I’m always learning. My title would be fromager. My passion for cheese is like my passion for life – it’s exciting. Working at great restaurants, cheese and wine has always been the centerpiece. I became a certified sommelier a few years back and have since refined my skills and knowledge to pair the best of both worlds. I have been very fortunate to work under the right people. There’s an expression that “Perfect practice makes perfect.” Although I am far from perfect, I have had much perfect practice.

2. What is your role and responsibility at the restaurant? I’m not much for titles but since you asked, I am the Assistant General Manager and my responsibility is to make sure the restaurant runs smoothly. I am also the fromager which would be extremely difficult to do not having the right staff. Fortunately, we have the right staff. I have a strong team to fall back on at the restaurant, beginning with Zack Bruell and Rob Rasmussen.

3. On average, how many daily cheeses are offered? Around 15. When I get really excited sometimes over 20.

4. How often will the cheese selection change? Where do most of the cheeses come from? It changes biweekly. It’s tough to say. From all around the world, but mainly France and the United States.

5. What is the best cheese and wine pairing? Fourme d’Ambert with Vin Jaune L’Etoile.

6. For someone hosting a party, what should their cheese tray look like? There are so many ways. I like to have about 5 or 6 cheeses: 1) a goat’s milk, preferably a young, soft. 2) a double or triple crème cow’s milk 3) hard cow or sheep’s milk 4) a washed rind cheese 5) a blue 6) and lastly, something unusual that doesn’t conform. For me, Sottocenere would be a great example.

7. Where are the best places locally to buy cheese? And online? Locally, head to Paul Minnillo from The Baricelli Inn, or Dion from Chef 2 Chef at The West Side Market. If you choose to order online, be wary. You don’t touch, smell or taste the cheese online. You’re at the mercy of reading bits of information and the reputation of seller from the Internet. If you find a cheese monger who knows your palate and whom you can trust, then it’s a different type of relationship. For consistency, go to Murrays Cheese, Artisanal or Formaggio Kitchen online.

8. You tell a story with each cheese you offer. What’s your favorite story? Stichelton is probably my favorite story. It’s a “rebellious cheese.” In the late 1980’s a couple of guys decided to make a raw milk form of stilton cheese. As you know, stilton must be pasteurized. To get around this rule, they found the traditional recipe for stilton and renamed it for the village that later became known as Stilton, Stichelton. The cows graze on the northern part of the Sherwood Forest. This cheese is fantastic. It’s well-balanced, tangy, and creamy. Hey, maybe even Robin Hood himself would have eaten this cheese.

9. What is your favorite and least favorite cheese? Favorite cheese is hard to say but I love a good Monte Enebro, Rafael Baez makes the best. Least favorite is any goat cheese that’s out of season; I’m not a fan of “bucky” flavors.

10. What’s your favorite item on the menu? The cassoulet.

11. What’s your impression of our city so far? So far so good. It’s been a lot of work and little play, thus far.

12. Aside from where you currently work, what restaurant has really impressed you thus far and why? Where are you dying to get to? To be honest, I really haven’t had a chance to go out and eat. Aside from a slice of lasagna at Trattoria, I can’t comment much about the food scene. However, from those whom I’ve talked to at work, the Flying Fig is at the top of our list.

13. What cheese can always be found in your fridge? My wife is a fan of triple crèmes so there’s always a St. Andre, Brillat-Savarin, Explorateur or Pierre Robert.

14. What point in the meal is best to eat cheese? Why? After the main course. There’s something sensual about being full, then eating more. It’s like having a great meal then making love.

15. What local cheese has really impressed you? When we moved here in the fall I tried Lake Erie Creamery’s Blomma goat cheese. It tasted a bit out of season then, but in the spring time it will definitely be on the cheese board.

16. How do you select which cheeses to offer? I have a standard spread of cheeses 12- 14. For example, a hard goat’s, a soft sheep, a washed rind cow’s. You can fill these in with any cheeses. There are hundreds of styles of these cheeses and I only get what’s ripe.

17. Will L’Albatros offer any cheese tastings? Yes, in the near future.

18. What is the best way to store cheese? NEVER WRAP DIRECTLY WITH PLASTIC WRAP. To get technical, each cheese has its own range of temperature and humidity; usually between 50 to 58 degrees, with 80 to 90% humidity. With the exception of blues: 42 to 46 degrees and 90% humidity. Cheeses should also never be wrapped in plastic wrap. It suffocates them; remember, they are alive. So for someone at home (average refrigerator temperature at 39 degrees with 32% humidity), for example, the best way to handle cheese is to store it in a cool, damp part of your basement or house. Or in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator wrapped first in a light wax paper, then wrapped in plastic wrap. At the restaurant I use cheese paper. Don’t forget, cheeses like it to be fairly dark.

19. Best plate of food you have ever had? When I worked in Tours, at Jean Bardet, I had a roasted pigeon (squab) with sweet potatoes cooked in a caramel with a touch of raspberry vinegar and, of all things, bananas.

20. Are there any current trends in cheese? Yes. Trends that I’ve noticed while purchasing cheese is the increase in quality of small, artisan cheese producers. People such as Andy and Mateo Kehler at Jasper Hill Farm have built a cheese cave allowing these small Vermont farmers to age their cheese properly, but most importantly get paid sooner than later. A trend here and abroad is artisan cheese in grocery stores. These artisan cheese shops are venturing out to grocery stores to get their cheese more accessible to the masses. People are going to large grocery stores to buy their cheese as opposed to going to the local cheese makers. This has all been possible by the overall awareness of artisan cheese being increased by those before us.

21. How can one really hone their palate and learn more about the various types of cheese and go beyond the basics? Find an affineur or fromager that you trust. Taste with them. Get to know them, but more importantly let them get to know you and where your palate’s at, then fall in love…with cheese. Read about the long history of some of these cheeses, but more importantly understand the life of these animals. That’s what makes cheese beautiful and alive.

22. Do you make any of your own cheese? If so, what kind and is it difficult? No. I have tried making cheese, but it’s difficult with the homogenized milk you buy in the store. I have had much better luck making cheese with cheese makers.

23. Which cheese makes the best grilled cheese? Practically, a simple cheddar. If I were to have my last grilled cheese sandwich on earth, it would be made with fontina between two pieces of brioche, cooked in white truffle butter…divine.

24. Do you cook? What’s your specialty? Yes. Mushroom risotto, my wife’s favorite.

Images courtesy of Kyle Roth.

L’Albatros is the newest restaurant endeavor from Zack Bruell (Parallax, Table 45) in the old That Place on Bellflower space. I absolutely love Parallax and have never had a bad experience there, so there was no doubt in my mind that this French brasserie was the right restaurant for such occasion.

I can’t even remember the last time I was at That Place, maybe 7 or 8 years ago, if not longer. Therefor, I can’t really recall what the space looked like. But from what I’ve read, Zack basically redid everything, from the decor to some structural work. Whatever he did, it worked because the space is quite beautiful. The styling is very clean and minimal overall. There are warmer colors on select walls to help soften the mostly stark white interior. It’s very well done overall.

Before we even looked at the menu, we ordered two glasses of champagne, which then turned into a glass of Woop Woop cab for me and a martini for Jamie. The server then started going over the few specials and we were quickly sold on basically everything, from specials to the entire menu.

Our server was so sweet and genuinely excited about the food. Her enthusiasm won me over and I decided to start off with the soup and salad specials (a lentil and lamb minestrone and a beet salad with goat cheese and candied pine nuts); Jamie had the onion soup. For dinner, I went with the veal short rib and Jamie chose the beef bourguignon.

The soup, which was topped with pesto, was ridiculously good. It had amazing layers of flavor and big chunks of lamb. The beet salad was also incredible, so good that there wasn’t a speck of evidence left on my plate. Jamie also really enjoyed his onion gratinee (that soup could almost be a meal). I enjoyed my few bites as well, but was surprised by how sweet it was, perhaps a little too sweet.

For my entree, my favorite part was the wild mushroom risotto – perfect texture and taste. I thought the short ribs were good, but not great. They were a little tougher than I anticipated and not as flavorful. I’m not sorry I got it, but think I will try something else next time. As for Jamie’s dish, he couldn’t have been happier. He called it sophisticated comfort food and enjoyed each bite (I agree – the few bites I snagged were really quite good).

As for dessert, Jamie was sold on the warm chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream and I went for a selection of three cheeses. We are very predictable – if there is something warm and chocolate on the menu, Jamie will order it every time and I can never pass up cheese.

Up until Saturday night, I would have awarded Baricelli as offering the best cheese selection in town. That distinction now goes to L’Albatros and Brandon, the guru of all things cheese (look for a q & a with him soon).

If it’s cheese you want, it’s cheese you get. Brandon comes to your table with approximately 25 different types of cheese. The cheese board changes weekly and features selections from all over the world plus several local options. Tableside, Brandon will either describe each one in detail for you, or based on your likes and dislikes, make a recommendation. I went for option number two.

I’m sure I’m going to butcher the spellings, but I tried Langres from France, a very sexy cheese as he described it with black truffles and cow’s milk; Case Forest from Germany, stinky but pleasant on the palate; and ozze from Portugal (plus one bleu but I didn’t write down the name).

With each serving of cheese, Brandon relayed a story of its origin and some interesting fact. It was very informative and we were both impressed by his great knowledge.

From the first bite, we were sold. I can’t wait for the weather to warm up and enjoy cheese and wine on their patio. Of course, I’m sure we’ll be back long before it’s warm enough to eat outside – special occasion or not.

Here are the stories thus far:

Janice Neider, Food and Wine Writer from San Francisco, part 1
Janice Neider, Food and Wine Writer from San Francisco, part 2
The Intelligencer

Note to Baricelli – please revisit this Friday special for early next year. I have around 7 weeks to go with this pregnancy and even though this Friday special is right up my alley, I can’t go for obvious reasons. Why is it that you can’t eat any of the good stuff while pregnant? Most good cheeses are off limits, a lot of fish, sushi (unless it’s cooked), wine (ok, I get this one but it’s hard – although I do allow myself a glass of red here and there), caffeine, etc. I know it’s all for a good cause, but I miss brie and the rainbow roll at Pacific East!

At any rate, head to Baricelli because this will no doubt be a fun night, especially if you are as much of a cheese fanatic as I am.

Enjoy your choice of the following, either inside or on that beautiful patio, perhaps the best patio in town:

Starters: baby clams & fregola or penne of the day
Entrees: two-way heirloom pork, chicken with figsor leg of lamb with mint pesto
Dolce: almond torte or two sorbets