Here’s a recap of our recent Bruell eats:

On Saturday, I got together with my oldest and dearest friends to celebrate two birthdays at Chinato. Our husbands were there too, though you wouldn’t have known it until we left (boys on one side, girls on the other). For two of the couples, this was their first trip.

The night did start off a little shaky. There were 8 of us and they sat us in a table clearly meant for 6. Sure, we could have all fit, but we would have been packed like in sardines and no one wants to go through a meal without being able to lift your arms. That’s not conducive for an enjoyable night out (and knowing we were an 8 top is why I made rezzies nearly 6 weeks out).

The management quickly saw this was an issue and changed our table. Problem (easily and swiftly) solved. Unfortunately, the somewhat shaky service did continue throughout the night. I get it was crowded and I get it was a Saturday night. But I have to imagine we’d be a good table to have: fun group, lots of food, lots of alcohol and we weren’t in a hurry to get someplace. But there were small things throughout the night that made us all feel like it was a bother to wait on us and that our server had much better things to be doing with his time (forgetting to bring things out, rolling eyes when asking for oil for bread, rather condescending overall, etc.).

But on to what really matters – the food! And as all of our previous visits, the food was stellar. We started off with fried artichokes, mussels, involtini and ribollita for the table. For my dinner, I had my favorite fennel salad (seriously, I can’t go there without ordering this) and a half order of the pappardelle with creamed cauliflower, pecorino and peperoncini (love how there is zero cream in this velvety sauce).

Everything was top notch and happily devoured by all. If you haven’t been, I recommend going soon. And despite the off service this night, we have enjoyed wonderful service on past visits.

For our 4^th wedding anniversary, we went to Parallax. Now this has long been a favorite of ours since he first opened. We love sitting out front during the summer, cocktails at the bar, and the main dining room, too. And they have some of my favorite sushi in town. But I have to say, this was my first trip to Parallax were I didn’t leave wowed and completely content.

I started with the yellowtail, jalapeno, mango chirashi with avocado sushi rice, followed by the beet salad and finally the udon noodles with rock shrimp & pork belly (miso black cod – as always – for Jamie).

I stand corrected. I was quite content and overly smitten with my entrée. Plenty of pork belly and shrimp swimming in mounds of noodles. I was happy. But not so much with my two starters. The beets weren’t cooked enough and the chirashi was just bland (which was surprising given its accompaniments).

But everyplace has off days and perhaps this was one of them. Because like I said, we’ve been big fans for years now and one experience like this won’t change that.

Finally, dinner with friends at L’Albatros. My favorite outing of the three (meal wise) because of two things: Brandon and cheese. Zack is truly lucky to have found Brandon and us Clevelanders are lucky Brandon chooses to call Cleveland home (side note: read more about how Brandon Chrostowski ended up here in Fresh Water). Service was excellent as was the food. And if you’re a fan of cheese, you simply can’t leave until you have let Brandon share some of his favorites with you.

While the cheese is always my favorite part of my L’Albatros experience, I did also greatly enjoy my oysters and braised leg of lamb. And the overall atmosphere is my favorite of all three.

For as much as I enjoy cheese, whether at home or dining out (I prefer cheese at the end of my meal versus something sweet), I’ve never participated in a structured cheese tasting. That is until L’Albatros extended an invitation for a few bloggers to participate.

Now, if you’ve been to L’Albatros, I don’t have to tell you about the food and how truly wonderful it is. You know this (and if you don’t, you’re missing out). And if you’ve dined here, chances are you’ve met Brandon Chrostowski and have already been wowed by their impressive cheese selection (the best in Cleveland) and his extensive knowledge. Well, imagine an entire evening of this.

We participated in the Italian cheese and wine tasting last week. For two hours, a group of 50 or so listened to music, sampled light hors d’oeuvres, and were taken on a trip throughout the regions of Italy where we enjoyed wines and cheese hand selected by Brandon, a certified sommelier, fromager and trained chef — a triple threat (read more about Brandon here).

The eight cheeses we sampled include: La Tur, Casatica di Bufala, Salva Cremasco, Pecorino Sardo, Testun al Barolo, Monte Veronese Malga, Taleggio Bergamasco and Blu del Moncenisio – plus carefully selected wines to accompany each.

Brandon won us over after our first visit to L’Albatros shortly after they opened. And this tasting just amplified what I like best about him. He’s knowledgeable, but not in a pretentious way. And he’s a wonderful storyteller who genuinely enjoys passing on his learnings and sharing the back story of each cheese- where it comes from, interesting facts, etc. So each guest walks away with something other than a new favorite cheese.

My personal favorite cheese of the night was the very first course, La Tur. This incredibly creamy cheese comes from Piemonte. It might just be one of the best cheeses I’ve ever tried. I was also impressed with the Testun al Barolo, but I truthfully don’t know if it was the floral hints of this cheese I liked so much or the great lengths Brandon went to for us to try (one hard-to-pronounce volcano  kept his order in Italy, and the horrible weather down south, where the only cheese monger in the US he was able to locate resides, was also affected by Mother Nature).  I actually enjoyed each course, with the exception of the last one – mostly because I’m just not into bleu cheese.

The staff was quite generous with the portions – for both the wine and cheese. They regularly came around to top off the wine and offer more cheese (though trust me, no one needed it). Like I said, we were guests, but the cost of this tasting (and most of their tastings), is $50. And I can tell you that is an incredible deal given all that you experience during the two hours. At the end, you have the opportunity to buy any of the wines and/or cheeses (I bought the vin santo del chianti, castello sonnino, Montespertoli. I didn’t care for the blu cheese it was paired with, but surprisingly liked this dessert wine).

The only thing I would have liked with this pairing was perhaps some greens or even sorbet about half way through, just to break it up (it is a lot of cheese, even for me, and you need something to cut through it all). But truly, even without, this was an impressive tasting and I highly recommend experiencing first-hand.

Parallax

The next day, I took a client to another of Zack Bruell’s restaurants: Parallax in Tremont. I’ve been impressed with this restaurant since the day he opened it. It’s always spot on and one of the best restaurants in town. We sat outside and I took advantage of it being a Wednesday when they offer the full sushi menu: sashimi combo of yellowtail, white tuna and tuna, plus a cup of the leek soup. I’m a fan of nearly everything I’ve tried there, but the sushi is among my favorite in town. Always fresh, inventive and completely satisfying. Sushi is available for lunch at Parallax everyday, but only a limited offering – except on Wednesdays. The entire sushi menu is available for dinner each night.

This was our third visit to the restaurant. On prior visits, we sat in the same room, the one that’s to the right of the bar. This time we sat to the left of the bar in the cozy brick room with a fireplace and views of the patio.

We started off with a wonderful bottle of the Normon petite syrah, of which I think I enjoyed the majority. I passed on the cauliflower soup for fear of making the same mistake on previous visits (filling up on soup and not being able to fully enjoy anything else) and instead opted for the beat salad. I peaked at nearby diners’ tables and they all seemed to be oohing and ahhing over the soup. Chef Bruell’s creativity really shines, in my opinion, with soups. None the less I opted to pass on what I know would have been wonderfully tasty for something that was just okay (the beet salad actually only had a hint of beets). Regardless, it’s not the salads that draw one into L’Albtros or keep bringing us back.

For dinner, I ordered the braised leg of lamb over pasta risotto and rosemary jus while Jamie once again chose the Saturday night special: beef bourguignon with pearl onions, mushrooms and burgandy reduction. Our server shared with us that this continues to be one of the most popular items and they sell out each Saturday by 8 p.m.

Wow. There really isn’t a better way to describe our meals. Before we even took a bite, we knew we were in for a treat based on aromas alone. When you can smell your dish approaching, you know it’s going to impress you. Jamie’s dish was even better than we remembered from our first visit. And the lamb – that just might be the best lamb I’ve had out in a long time.

And to top it all off – and what made Jamie bring me here in the first place – five glorious cheeses handpicked from Brandon Chrostowski, manager/fromager. Honestly, I would love to share exactly what I had, but I was feeling too good from the wine to bother writing anything down, and the more and more I turn 29, the less and less I can remember. But it doesn’t matter – just tell Brandon what you like and he’ll happily set you up on a wonderful journey that will delight your palate.

It was a perfect evening and a delicious way to end an already good day that started off at the farmer’s market at Shaker Square (purchases at Ohio Honey and Tea Hill Farms) and breakfast at Vine & Bean (more on that later).

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Speaking of Zack Bruell, if you’re a fan, you might be interested to know he’s offering his version of cooking classes: Take 45 with Zack at Table 45.

The interactive cooking demonstrations and tastings will feature Bruell preparing his signature eclectic fare, providing techniques, tips and insight in Table 45’s state-of-the art open kitchen. Sessions will feature a different theme every month; the first is Tandoori oven cooking.

Take 45 will take place every other Tuesday at 6 p.m., beginning June 23, and accommodates up to eight participants. The demonstrations cost $55 per person, including chef-prepared cuisine. Optional wine pairings are available for $25 per person. Reservations are required. Call 216-707-4045.

1. Tell us a little about your background. Well, classic story. I started in the kitchen, and then made the switch to the dining room years back. I graduated from the Culinary Institute of America with my Bachelor’s degree, apprenticed under Charlie Trotter in Chicago, who helped me make my way over to France. Once there I worked at two great establishments: Jean Bardet in Tours and Lucas Carton in Paris. Once I arrived back in the states I worked in NYC at Picholine, Le Cirque and Chanterelle. Chanterelle made the greatest impression on me. Owners, Karen and David Waltuck, have really given me wisdom and many tools for success. Now I’m here in Cleveland.

I don’t consider myself a cheese expert; I’m always learning. My title would be fromager. My passion for cheese is like my passion for life – it’s exciting. Working at great restaurants, cheese and wine has always been the centerpiece. I became a certified sommelier a few years back and have since refined my skills and knowledge to pair the best of both worlds. I have been very fortunate to work under the right people. There’s an expression that “Perfect practice makes perfect.” Although I am far from perfect, I have had much perfect practice.

2. What is your role and responsibility at the restaurant? I’m not much for titles but since you asked, I am the Assistant General Manager and my responsibility is to make sure the restaurant runs smoothly. I am also the fromager which would be extremely difficult to do not having the right staff. Fortunately, we have the right staff. I have a strong team to fall back on at the restaurant, beginning with Zack Bruell and Rob Rasmussen.

3. On average, how many daily cheeses are offered? Around 15. When I get really excited sometimes over 20.

4. How often will the cheese selection change? Where do most of the cheeses come from? It changes biweekly. It’s tough to say. From all around the world, but mainly France and the United States.

5. What is the best cheese and wine pairing? Fourme d’Ambert with Vin Jaune L’Etoile.

6. For someone hosting a party, what should their cheese tray look like? There are so many ways. I like to have about 5 or 6 cheeses: 1) a goat’s milk, preferably a young, soft. 2) a double or triple crème cow’s milk 3) hard cow or sheep’s milk 4) a washed rind cheese 5) a blue 6) and lastly, something unusual that doesn’t conform. For me, Sottocenere would be a great example.

7. Where are the best places locally to buy cheese? And online? Locally, head to Paul Minnillo from The Baricelli Inn, or Dion from Chef 2 Chef at The West Side Market. If you choose to order online, be wary. You don’t touch, smell or taste the cheese online. You’re at the mercy of reading bits of information and the reputation of seller from the Internet. If you find a cheese monger who knows your palate and whom you can trust, then it’s a different type of relationship. For consistency, go to Murrays Cheese, Artisanal or Formaggio Kitchen online.

8. You tell a story with each cheese you offer. What’s your favorite story? Stichelton is probably my favorite story. It’s a “rebellious cheese.” In the late 1980’s a couple of guys decided to make a raw milk form of stilton cheese. As you know, stilton must be pasteurized. To get around this rule, they found the traditional recipe for stilton and renamed it for the village that later became known as Stilton, Stichelton. The cows graze on the northern part of the Sherwood Forest. This cheese is fantastic. It’s well-balanced, tangy, and creamy. Hey, maybe even Robin Hood himself would have eaten this cheese.

9. What is your favorite and least favorite cheese? Favorite cheese is hard to say but I love a good Monte Enebro, Rafael Baez makes the best. Least favorite is any goat cheese that’s out of season; I’m not a fan of “bucky” flavors.

10. What’s your favorite item on the menu? The cassoulet.

11. What’s your impression of our city so far? So far so good. It’s been a lot of work and little play, thus far.

12. Aside from where you currently work, what restaurant has really impressed you thus far and why? Where are you dying to get to? To be honest, I really haven’t had a chance to go out and eat. Aside from a slice of lasagna at Trattoria, I can’t comment much about the food scene. However, from those whom I’ve talked to at work, the Flying Fig is at the top of our list.

13. What cheese can always be found in your fridge? My wife is a fan of triple crèmes so there’s always a St. Andre, Brillat-Savarin, Explorateur or Pierre Robert.

14. What point in the meal is best to eat cheese? Why? After the main course. There’s something sensual about being full, then eating more. It’s like having a great meal then making love.

15. What local cheese has really impressed you? When we moved here in the fall I tried Lake Erie Creamery’s Blomma goat cheese. It tasted a bit out of season then, but in the spring time it will definitely be on the cheese board.

16. How do you select which cheeses to offer? I have a standard spread of cheeses 12- 14. For example, a hard goat’s, a soft sheep, a washed rind cow’s. You can fill these in with any cheeses. There are hundreds of styles of these cheeses and I only get what’s ripe.

17. Will L’Albatros offer any cheese tastings? Yes, in the near future.

18. What is the best way to store cheese? NEVER WRAP DIRECTLY WITH PLASTIC WRAP. To get technical, each cheese has its own range of temperature and humidity; usually between 50 to 58 degrees, with 80 to 90% humidity. With the exception of blues: 42 to 46 degrees and 90% humidity. Cheeses should also never be wrapped in plastic wrap. It suffocates them; remember, they are alive. So for someone at home (average refrigerator temperature at 39 degrees with 32% humidity), for example, the best way to handle cheese is to store it in a cool, damp part of your basement or house. Or in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator wrapped first in a light wax paper, then wrapped in plastic wrap. At the restaurant I use cheese paper. Don’t forget, cheeses like it to be fairly dark.

19. Best plate of food you have ever had? When I worked in Tours, at Jean Bardet, I had a roasted pigeon (squab) with sweet potatoes cooked in a caramel with a touch of raspberry vinegar and, of all things, bananas.

20. Are there any current trends in cheese? Yes. Trends that I’ve noticed while purchasing cheese is the increase in quality of small, artisan cheese producers. People such as Andy and Mateo Kehler at Jasper Hill Farm have built a cheese cave allowing these small Vermont farmers to age their cheese properly, but most importantly get paid sooner than later. A trend here and abroad is artisan cheese in grocery stores. These artisan cheese shops are venturing out to grocery stores to get their cheese more accessible to the masses. People are going to large grocery stores to buy their cheese as opposed to going to the local cheese makers. This has all been possible by the overall awareness of artisan cheese being increased by those before us.

21. How can one really hone their palate and learn more about the various types of cheese and go beyond the basics? Find an affineur or fromager that you trust. Taste with them. Get to know them, but more importantly let them get to know you and where your palate’s at, then fall in love…with cheese. Read about the long history of some of these cheeses, but more importantly understand the life of these animals. That’s what makes cheese beautiful and alive.

22. Do you make any of your own cheese? If so, what kind and is it difficult? No. I have tried making cheese, but it’s difficult with the homogenized milk you buy in the store. I have had much better luck making cheese with cheese makers.

23. Which cheese makes the best grilled cheese? Practically, a simple cheddar. If I were to have my last grilled cheese sandwich on earth, it would be made with fontina between two pieces of brioche, cooked in white truffle butter…divine.

24. Do you cook? What’s your specialty? Yes. Mushroom risotto, my wife’s favorite.

Images courtesy of Kyle Roth.