Chef Matt Harlan, aka Chatty, might be one of the friendliest people I’ve ever met. We’ve been fans of his since he was head chef at Lolita, and he continues to impress at Bar Symon. He’s just one of the good guys – and he’s a great chef, too – which makes me like him that much more.

Now here’s a fish recipe I know I can make and my husband will eat:

Roasted Walleye w/carrots, beets, shiitakes and fennel

• 4 – 8 oz walleye filets, skin on
• 1 small yellow onion
• 6 shiitake mushrooms, julienned, stems saved
• 1 fennel bulb, julienned
• 2 red beets, 1 julienned, 1 medium diced
• 750 ml Dogfish Head Pangaea, 375 ml to cook with, 375 ml to drink
• 3T blended oil
• 6T butter, unsalted
• 1 bunch organic carrots, blanched and quartered
• 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, leaves picked off of stems
• 3T Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Salt and pepper for seasoning

The Sauce

Over medium heat sweat the onion.  Add the mushroom stems, 1/4 of the fennel and the medium diced red beets.  Get a good carmalization on them and then deglaze with 375 ml of beer.  Let simmer for 30 minutes and strain.  Reserve the liquid.

The Preparation

Season the walleye with salt and set aside.  Get a sauté pan hot over medium heat; add the blended oil and 2T butter.  Put the walleye in skin side down and continue to sear until the skin is nice and crispy.  Flip the fish over in the pan to finish cooking.  Set the walleye aside and add the mushrooms, fennel and beets to the pan.  Season well and get some good color on the veggies.  When they are cooked set aside in separate bowl with the picked parsley.  Add the carrots to the pan.  Once the carrots have good color, add the sauce to the pan to help deglaze.  Add the remaining butter and 2T extra virgin oil and whisk it altogether.  Put the carrots on the plate, the walleye over the carrots, the sauce over the walleye and the salad over the fish.

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This post was sponsored by Heinen’s. Of course, like Harlan share, you can have the Dogfish Head Pangaea. Or, as Dominique Elmelliti suggests, the wine consultant for the University Heights store, try a French white Bordeaux. She likes the Chateaux Lamothe de Haux ($14.99). She explains, that its refreshing acidity and fruity flavors of this wine make it a great complement to the Walleye, and the well balanced acidity and fruit pair well with the sweetness of the red beets as well as the fennel. This sauvignon will also bring the pepper/spiciness of the parsley to an overall well balanced dish. In other words the sweetness of the fish and its vegetables with the refreshing citrus, apricot and peachiness of the wine, will bring up all of the aromas and spiciness together to a well-balanced dish.

Situated in Avon Lake, it’s about a 40 minute drive. The distance doesn’t phase us. I have two sisters that live out that way so I’m used to the trip, plus we’ll gladly travel for good food.

First, the decor. I’ve said it before: Those Symons have good taste. Situated in a strip mall, there is nothing strip mall-ish about this restaurant. Upon entering, you are greeted by lots of school house lights (a personal favorite), a never-ending bar donned with countless beer choices on tap plus a stainless steel counter and a mix of stone tiles and barn-wood siding. All of which help make this American Brasserie very casual and cool (the glass along the back with etched pigs is a fun element, too). It’s quite a contrast from Symon’s other restaurants, which are much more cozy, sophisticated and warm overall. But for this type of establishment it works, and works well. The only thing I miss which is consistent in his other Ohio restaurants, is the open kitchen (it’s a bit odd knowing the very talented and friendly chef Matt Harlan was in the back and we couldn’t see him,  like we were used to at Lolita).

The bulk of the menu centers around a wood-fire grill (its aromas greet you from the parking lot). Since it was his birthday, Jamie decided to indulge and try the fried organic chicken with truffle honey and rosemary. I opted for a bit of everything, including one goat taco, one duck confit slider with cilantro, pickled carrot and spicy mayo, the famous fried Brussels sprouts and a single order of the pork and fennel grilled sausage.

As Jamie put it, the fried chicken was the best he’s ever had – even better than his moms. And he was equally as happy with the creamed corn, which was super fresh and quite flavorful (though he felt it could have used a bit more bacon).

As for mine, I couldn’t have been happier. The  goat taco, a Tuesday night regular special, was wonderful – I practically inhaled it. Great pairing with all the cilantro. The duck confit slider was equally as satisfying. In fact next time, I’m ordering two. As for the sprouts, that classic Symon side dish, is always consistently good.

The only dish I wasn’t overly wowed with was the pork and fennel sausage. I enjoyed the presentation and accompaniments (three different mustards and grilled sourdough bread) but wasn’t impressed with the sausage itself. I ended taking the majority home.

Despite a freezer filled with Jeni’s Ice Creams (sweet corn might be a new fav), we couldn’t resist the molten chocolate cake. Decadent, rich and the perfect temperature.

One other thing worth noting – the menu is ridiculously reasonable, even more so than Lolita. Our total bill was $44! I even did a double take. And to round it all off was wonderful service – from everyone. Prompt, friendly, knowledgeable and pleasant all around. And if you happen to have little diners like us, incredibly accommodating for families.

Speaking of little diners, our trip to Bar Symon tonight now completes Natalie’s tour de Symon. At just 8 months old, she’s been to all of his Ohio restaurants. And if Jamie has his way, we’ll be heading to Roast soon, by way of a quick stop at the casino.

It’s a combination of the food, atmosphere, crowd and incredibly reasonable prices that have made us loyal customers. And this past Thursday, Lolita earned one more. Natalie can now add this Tremont staple to her ever growing list of fine dining experiences.

This trip was on behalf of Metromix, which surprisingly the site has yet to review. So for anyone out there who has yet to check out Lolita, my full recap should appear in a few weeks.

We started off with the roasted dates and beet salad with honey and ricotta, then moved onto the buccatini with carbonara, big chunks of pork belly and pancetta and the duck prosciutto pizza with rosemary and egg. But the highlight of the dinner – a quick chat with the super friendly chef Matt (Chatty) Harlan, who made Jamie’s day by bringing out the restaurant’s famed burger with egg and bacon (thanks again, Matt – I know how much you love making those!). By the way, chef Harlan, who has been there for the past 12 years (Lola then Lolita), has a little less than two months left there before he heads over to Avon Lake to lead the kitchen at Bar Symon.

As usual, everything was delicious – especially the beets (hands-down best beet salad in town – I know I always include that, but it’s true) and the burger. That burger is so deliciously messy and juicy; I can’t wait to see what other burger creations Michael Symon unveils at The B Spot.

Thankfully, Natalie was a picture perfect diner throughout the entire meal. Nonetheless, we still ate fast, paid within seconds of the server dropping off the main dishes, and were headed out before the dinner rush made its way in.

On our way out, I noticed Lolita is hosting a lamb dinner on May 6 with Jamison Farm. It’s short notice, but I’m willing to bet this would be worth checking out.

According to Joe Crea, Symon is taking over Swingos Grand Tavern in Avon Lake as well the former Cold Stone Creamery in Woodmere, which is part of the Eton Collection (this will replace the bakery he was originally planning).

Here’s more from the article:
Bar Symon, an American bar and brasserie, will occupy the site of Swingos Grand Tavern, which closed suddenly in February. The restaurant, at 32858 Walker Road, is scheduled to open in June.

“Everything on the menu will range from $9 to $18,” said Symon, adding that “most of the menu will be built around live fire cooking” and may feature custom-built rotisseries similar to the ones boldly displayed at his most recent restaurant, Roast, in Detroit.

“Very casual, American-driven, very comfortable — that’s what we’re aiming for,” Symon said, describing the vibe he and his wife, Liz, and their business partner Doug Petkovic are seeking. In addition to 100 beers from around the globe, 40 of them artisinal brews available on tap, Symon anticipates a comparatively modest wine list featuring about 25 bottles. Matt Harlan, executive chef at Lolita, will take over the kitchen in Avon Lake.

Once the doors open at Bar Symon, the partners will kick into overdrive to open the other restaurant.

The B Spot — “pretty much just great burgers and beer,” Symon said — will bring upscale casual fare to the tony Eton Chagrin Boulevard shopping center. It replaces a bakery concept he originally envisioned.

“We just wanted great, simple food,” Symon said of a menu that will feature “maybe 10 burgers plus fries, milkshakes, a couple of salads and around 20 beers on tap.”
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Congratulations, Michael, Liz and Doug! And good luck to Chatty – although we’ll miss you at Lolita.

Terra Madre
This year’s class has been selected to attend the food extravaganza in Torino, Italy. I remember Dominic Cerino talking about his experience a few years ago and sharing his memories. It sounds like an amazing food journey. Here’s more from Slow Food Northern Ohio:

In October 2008, farmers, producers, chefs and educators from around the globe will gather in Turin, Italy for Terra Madre 2008, the third biennial meeting of the Terra Madre Network organized by Slow Food International. The Terra Madre event will bring together food communities, cooks, academics and youth delegates from around the world to work towards increasing small-scale, traditional, and sustainable food production.

The following delegates have been selected by Slow Food USA to represent our region at Terra Madre 2008:

Farmers & Producers
Aaron Miller, Miller Livestock, Kinsman
Cindy & Terry Smith, Goatfeathers Point Farm, Peninsula
Abbe Turner, Lucky Penny Farm, Garrettsville
Adam & Jennifer Gidlow, On the Rise Bakery, Cleveland Heights

Chefs
Matt Harlan, Lolita
Paul Minnillo, Baricelli Inn & Baricelli Cheese Company
Jonathon Sawyer, Bar Cento & Greenhouse Tavern & Restaurant
David Uecke, Anthe’s Restaurant (Akron)

On Monday, July 14 at 6 p.m., head to Bar Cento to help raise money for the event. For $40, the event will feature food and wine of past attendees. Congratulations, Chefs, and safe travels.
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Speaking of Dominic Cerino, he will be heading to Cordova, Alaska next week, along with Regan Reik of Pier W, to not only cook but discuss the eco system and what makes Cordova so special for 100 media and chefs.

“It kind of cracks me up that they are flying in two chefs from Cleveland to cook a seafood dinner for media and chefs from the west coast, but hey I’ll take it,” shared Cerino.

He also added that he will be taking some of Cleveland with him, including his own guanciali, Lake Erie Creamery goat cheese and possibly blue eggs, a favorite of Cerinos.
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I had heard last month that Chef Michael Herschman was leaving his post at the Cabin Club in Aurora. I admit, the first thing I thought when I heard this was, where else can he go? I don’t know if it’s pretty common in the chef world to constantly change kitchens, but in my professional world, you would be labeled a flight risk. You can now find Herschman at Metropolitan Cafe.

Regardless of why he moves around so much, one thing remains constant – his incredible talent! Aside from Cabin Club, I have tried to follow him throughout the city since he (unfortunately) closed Mojo in Tremont. And this latest move will actually get me to go back to Metropolitan this fall.

We had several of my cousins over, as well as my parents, uncle and grandma. My grandma is one of seven kids so my mom is like one of 100 first cousins. When she was growing up, they did everything together. Of the second and third cousins (confused yet?), I’m closest to these guys and that’s who we had over. It’s always fun for us younger cousins to sit around the table and hear the stories from their childhood, and of course, my grandma, for 94, can remember everything and every date that has ever happened so listening to her talk and share is easily one of my favorite things. We have such a large family and every time we are together, it not only makes for a wonderful time and good laughs, but I also realize just how fortunate I am to be part of this – and also a little sad that we don’t get together more often.

The Meal
Since it was a big group, I wanted to make an easy meal that I could prep most everything ahead of time. Pretty much everything on the menu I’ve made before, so that definitely helped. The exception to this was the beets I served first. I absolutely love beets but have never attempted to make them before. My favorite beets anywhere are at Lolita, and thankfully, the man behind those beets, Chef Matt Harlan, helped me attempt to recreate that dish.

Lolita’s beets are drizzled with a mixture of honey, red wine vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Then, topped with a mixture of ricotta, salt/pepper and lemon zest, then finshed with chives, toasted almonds and orange zest. It’s absolutely delicious.

Matt was cool enough to give me some tips on making this dish. I did a practice run earlier in the week and frankly, they came out like crap. After talking to Matt, I realized where I messed up and mixed everything together with the ricotta and therefore totally botched this dish. Luckily, my second attempt came out much, much better. They weren’t as good as the real thing, but I must admit they weren’t bad and I think my guests enjoyed them. Either that or they are fantastic liars.

As for everything else, I made:

–My famous stuffed date appetizer, inspired by Avec, my favorite restaurant in Chicago. Seriously, this is the best appetizer ever and always a big hit. Click here for the recipe.

–Chickpea bruschetta, a staple at Mario Batali’s Babbo restaurant. For this dish, you need:
1 C chickpeas
4 T olive oil
2 T black olive paste
2 T balsamic vinegar
2 T chopped basil
dash red chili flakes
dash fresh rosemary
1 clove minced garlic
Kosher salt to taste
toasted bread

Combine everything and serve over bread. Can be served either as an appetizer or with the meal, which is what I prefer.

–Peas, but not just any peas – another Mario Batali classic. Super easy and again, a sure crowd pleaser. Even the non-peas lovers enjoy this simple dish.

–Pasta with summer amatriciana sauce (adopted from Fine Cooking). Not as good as Battuto’s version, but definitely a winner.

2 T olive oil
1 red onion, diced
2 – 5 thick slices of pancetta (about 1/4 in thick), cut into short strips (I prefer the pancetta at Chef’s Choice Meats, but because of distance, I often just pick it up at Miles Farmer’s Market)
1.5 lbs cherry tomatoes, halved
1/8 tsp cayenne
Kosher salt to taste (I often omit this depending on how salty the pancetta is)

Heat the oil and onion over medium heat until softened but not brown, about 4 mins. Add pancetta and cook until both are a muted shade of purple, about 6 mins. Add tomatoes, cayenne and salt. Simmer until the tomatoes have been reduced to a thick, pulpy sauce – about 15 – 20 mins.

You can either serve as is, which is great, or take it one step further and mix with an immersion blender (my favorite tool in the kitchen), which is how I prefer.

–Bone-in pork chops. The key here is the brine, which we learned from Mario himself. Soak the chops in a mix of ¼-cup kosher salt and ¼-cup sugar in 2 quarts of water for at least 12 hours or overnight. Then brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper and grill. You can also serve with grilled shallots or peaches, but I was lazy and we just served with really good balsamic. Trust me, the brine really does a number on these chops and they are simply wonderful. I could never eat chops until I discovered the beauty of brine.

1. The top 5 spices that are a must in every kitchen? Kosher salt, peppercorns, coriander, chili flakes and chef 2 chef steak seasoning.

2. What is your favorite and least favorite thing to make? I’m really enjoying making the pizzas. I also enjoy pig roasts and clambakes. Desserts have been my least favorite.

3. If you could cook for one person, real or dead, who would it be? It would be a table of Michael Symon, Frank Rogers and Thomas Keller. They have meant the most to me during my cooking career and it would be fun to show them how far I have come.

4. You’re having a dinner party, what are the top 5 songs on your play list? This is a funny question. It would probably be quiet since nobody would want to listen to Garth Brooks while they’re eating!

5. Favorite restaurant in Cleveland? I have a bunch but Flying Fig and Momocho stick out the most.

6. What restaurant do you miss? Theory

7. What is your favorite thing on the new menu? The pizzas. They’re easy to make and are very good. I’m currently going to school to be certified on making them.

8. Where does your passion for food come from? Seeing people happy. I take it pretty hard when people experience a bad meal that our kitchen put out.

9. Most unusual food you have ever tried? Confit of lamb heart salad.

10. If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing? I wouldn’t be a math teacher!

11. What was your time like on Iron Chef? What a time that was – pretty nerve racking and exciting at the same time. We went in with a game plan and had to tweak it a bit when we found out it was asparagus. We felt that we cooked great and there wasn’t a whole lot more we could do at that point. I would love a rematch.

12. What foodie mags/shows do you watch? Next Iron Chef, I enjoy reading your blog, Ruhlmans, Bruni, clev food/wine and I just found a new one that is funny – raging server.

13. Any plans to open your own restaurant? Not for at least six more years! The day will come when I have to do something, just not sure yet. This month I celebrate10 years working at the restaurant and am happy to have the opportunity to work for the best chef in the city (in my opinion).