review: zinc bistro bar bakery

These are the posts I don’t look forward to sharing. But you can’t like everything and you opt to come here because you want my honest opinion – no matter what. So here goes it.

I went to Zinc a few weeks ago on behalf of Metromix. I had heard prior to my visit that the service was shaky, but a good mix of pros and cons on the food. Well, I have to say that our service was spot on (though we did have a our toddler with us which meant we dined like blue hairs!). But even as the restaurant drew a bigger crowd, our service was still well above average.

The food on the other hand, not so much. I can already hear the excuses: ‘they are still new, give ‘em time’. Or, ‘no restaurant is perfect upon opening’. I’ve said it once, I’ll say it 100 times. If you are open for business and charging full prices, then your food and everything else you present should be to the level that you’d like your customers to experience.

Now I will be honest and say that my folks were with us and they genuinely seemed pleased with their dinners. It was Jamie and myself who weren’t too happy. It wasn’t that our food was bad. Nothing we sampled was in poor taste (except the scallops, and even my dad who eats everything passed on those). It’s just that with such stiff competition around the corner (and throughout the city), you better be great. Because we have lots of choices about where to spend our money and our free time. And based on our visit, there was nothing that excited me and would make me want to come back (though I would be curious to grab a coffee and croissant one morning).

Here’s part of the review or you can read the full piece here:

Decades ago a once vibrant and bustling department store stood proudly on Euclid Avenue until it closed its doors in 1961 due to downtown’s declining retail scene. While retail may not be as prominent within downtown Cleveland as it once was in the days of the Taylor & Sons department store, the culinary scene is and continues to thrive and grow, as is evident with Zinc Bistro Bar and Bakery—the newest tenant in the renovated former retail turned office space in the Gateway and East Fourth area on Euclid.

Food: Focusing on French classics and offering Cleveland’s only raw bar, chef-owner Tom Quick, formerly with Epiq Bistro and Piccolo Mondo, hopes to be a vital player in the ever-growing food scene and popularity of E. 4th.

His menu focuses on traditional French dishes, including cassoulet, duck a l ‘orange, escargot, crepes and coq au vin. On our visit, we started off with a half dozen west coast oysters (per our server’s urging) and onion soup, then moved onto the braised short rib ravioli app, bacon and egg salad, coquilles saint-jacques (scallops with crispy cauliflower in brown butter), and the braised short rib entrée.

There is little to this dinner that wowed us. Don’t misunderstand. Everything was, in fact, enjoyable. But with such stiff competition right around the corner, and with the continued success of L’Albatros, we expected great—not borderline good and in some cases, just OK. Aside from one dish, nothing we sampled left a lasting impression.

That impressionable dish in question was the short rib ravioli. Our suggestion, order the larger appetizer portion and enjoy this as a meal. It was beautifully presented and cooked perfectly, with plum mushrooms and a pea purée.

We can only assume the chef has a thing for short ribs, because the short rib entrée was our other favorite dish, with creamed spinach and perfectly soft root vegetables that melt in your mouth. The wine that the short ribs were braised in came through in every bite. Our only complaint with this dish was that the meat was not as tender as we would have liked. Short ribs should not require a knife, and these ones did.

As for our other dishes, the scallops were completely oversalted and inedible (though the cauliflower was perfectly crunchy and seasoned beautifully—we would have been happy with a plate of this alone). The oysters didn’t impress us as much as we were led to believe (not to mention several bits of shell atop some of the oysters), and aside from the extra thick and crispy bacon, the bacon and egg salad contained all the right ingredients, but fell short on flavor.

Décor: This formal French bistro space is big, though they do a nice job of making it not feel as big as it really it. There’s an upstairs mezzanine, large bar area upon entering, wide booth and smaller tables just past the bar, followed by another dining room that can also be used for private parties. We feel the most sought-after section of this restaurant will prove to be the 30-seat patio and bar. This will surely draw a lot of attention and become a popular destination for the after-work crowd.

Bottom line: Recognizing Zinc is still in its infancy, our hope is that the food can only improve. In the meantime, enjoy the patio and the delightful drinks and what we believe will be a nice bakery for morning snacks and your daily caffeine intake.

cook like eric williams (braised beef brisket)

food and wine pairings, guacamole recipeThe chef pairings might just be my husband’s favorite series on the blog to date. We (I) try to make most of the dishes at home, and he knows this. And when I told Jamie what Eric Williams, chef/owner of Momochoprovided, he quickly followed up with a request for immediate trial. That’s because this is perhaps his favorite dish at our favorite Mexican restaurant. And for good reason. Just look at all the ingredients – how can this not be anything short of amazing? And if I’ve said it once, I’ll say it 100 times – if you have yet to try Momocho, you’re truly missing out. What could be better on one of our super hot summer nights than meeting friend at Momocho while sipping on a cucumber margarita… or pitcher!

Braised beef brisket (machaca)

  • 5 lb piece beef brisket
  • 2 cups red wine
  • 20 oz tomato juice
  • 1/4 cups lime juice
  • 1 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 cup salt
  • 1/2 cup chopped garlic
  • 2 tbl black pepper
  • 4 tbl ancho powder or 2 whole chiles
  • 1 tbl cinnamon
  • ½ cup coffee, ground (Guatemalan bean preferred)
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 Spanish onion, rough cut

Season brisket with coffee, ancho powder and salt. Grill-sear beef to caramelize. Cut beef into similar size pieces (3) and put in large braising pan with all remaining ingredients. Add enough water to cover brisket. Cover with foil and place in 300 degree oven for 3-4 hours. Discard whole onions and bay leaves. Remove brisket from liquid and pull all meat. Reserve liquid to reheat.

Guacamole  

  • 6-8 avocados (calavo-haas avocado)
  • 1 tbl salt
  • 1 tbl chopped garlic
  • 1/2 spanish onion diced
  • 1/2 bunch cilantro minced
  • 1/2 jalapeno minced
  • 2 tbl lime juice
  • 1/2 tsp black pepperyield

Technique: Split avocado in half and remove pit. Using a soup spoon, remove flesh. Combine avocado with garlic and salt in stainless steel or glass mixing bowl. Macerate together using a potato masher. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Amounts may vary slightly depending on size and strength of avocados and jalapeno peppers. Always taste and season with kosher salt if needed.

Variations: Fold in fresh tropical fruits (mango or pineapple), goat cheese, different chiles (chipotle or roasted poblanos) or smoked seafoods (salmon or trout).

Heinen's Logo PMS 350 & 209This post was sponsored by Heinen’s. Carolyn Maldonado, wine consultant for the Pepper Pike store, suggests Au Bon Climat Pinor Noir ($21.99) or Argento Malbec ($11.99). She says both are good summer drinking wines and light enough to enjoy in the heat. She adds that the pinot pairs well with beef, whereas the Malbec is a good choice to complement the chiles and cinnamon.

If you’re enjoying the guacamole as an appetizer, she suggests starting with a Torrontes (Crios – $15.99 – is a good choice) or an Alberino or Vinho Verde. They’re all light, great with chips, and are good starter wines to open up the palate.

As previously posted, I sampled the Au Bon Climat pinot at a wine dinner at The Greenhouse Tavern last week. I wholeheartedly agree with Maldonado – that is a fantastic wine and I highly recommend, and look forward to trying with the chef’s brisket.

q&a with olivier kielwasser

With Vintage Ohio next weekend, here’s a q&a with someone heavily involved in Ohio wines and responsible for selecting which ones to carry as well as educating consumers and staff. Olivier Kielwasser isn’t just in charge of wine for Giant Eagle, it’s a long-time passion and he’s become quite the fan of local wines in the process.

This post was sponsored by The Ohio Wine Producers Association. If you’re heading to Vintage Ohio August 6 – 7, remember to use code 2010CLFD for discounted tickets.

1. How did your fascination and appreciation of wine start? Growing up in Alsace, France, I helped my grandfathers tend their small vineyards and make wine, mostly Riesling, Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer. They were making wine for personal consumption.

2. What is the best plate of food you’ve ever had and what were you drinking? I enjoy cooking; there are so many neat recipes.  My best food and wine pairing ever was a beef tenderloin with fingerling potatoes and Chateau Cantemerle Haut-Medoc from Bordeaux.  It was fascinating and a revelation.

3. What is your favorite Ohio winery to visit? Ferrante winery. The folks there are very nice and welcoming; they make excellent wines and have a great restaurant where you can savor both food and wine.

4. Top 5 Ohio wines worth sampling? What Ohio wines do you carry? The Cabernet and the Viognier from Kinkead Ridge.  The fruit wines from Breitenbach.   Ferrante’s Rieslings.  Wolf Creek’s Redemption Red and White Lies.

At Giant Eagle we carry wines from many Ohio wineries as we strive for diversity, and we offer the widest assortment of Ohio wines in the state. Chain-wide, we carry Breitenbach, Debonne, Ferrante, Lonz, Mon Ami, Maize Valley, Meiers and Raven’s Glenn. Many stores also carry two or more of the following, based on consumer demand: Biscotti, Dover, Firelands, Kirkwood, Laurello, Mantey, Mastropietro, Paper Moon, Quarry Hill, Silver Moon, Valley Vineyards, Virant and Wolf Creek.  While assortment varies by store, most wines are available on a special order basis.

5. What makes Ohio so ideal for producing wine? The climate mostly.  The climate in Northeast Ohio is ideal for producing whites, while down south some very nice reds are made.

6. If Cleveland were a wine, which one would it be? A Riesling – it’s Cleveland’s sweet spot.

7. Favorite wine pairing? Riesling with pork dishes and sauerkraut.

8. What’s the best way to navigate the wine menu at a restaurant? By the weight of the wines, which many restaurants are now listing. One key to pairing wine and food is to match the intensity of the food with the weight of the wine. For instance, full-bodied wines like cabernets have lots of tannins, which can make them taste bitter but are also great for cutting full-flavored foods that are spicy, peppery or fat. That’s why robust reds go so well with a steak au poivre.  Lighter, crisper, cooler wines like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc are great for spicy foods because they ameliorate the heat.

9. Favorite sites to learn more about wine? Robert Parker is the preeminent wine critic in the world.  What he says often determines the wine market.  Jancis Robinson’s Saturday column in The Herald Tribune is an industry must-read. Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast are also great resources.  To get out in the world and start sampling, visit Local Wine Events which provides information on local – and often free – wine tastings in your area.

10. What are three wines everyone should sample in their lifetime? What wine do you always keep on-hand at home? These would be the wines that are best-of-class in their appellation and/or varietal designation – based on the wines you like.  For instance, I love Pauillac, Sauternes and Riesling.  So for Pauillac I would want to sample Chateau Mouton-Rothschild.  For Sauternes, Chateau d’Yquem.  For Riesling, Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru Rangen de Thann. Now while these wines are exceptional, when it comes to selling wine, for me, it’s all about giving the customer great quality at a particular price point.  We never wanted to be snobby about wine, because I don’t think more money guarantees a better bottle.  We realized it really turns people off when picking wines becomes too difficult and expensive, and happy wine drinkers are frequent wine drinkers. So at home, I keep Ohio wines of course, as well as California Cabernets, Pinot Noirs from the Northwest, reds from the Rhone Valley and Italian Pinot Grigios.

11. Favorite restaurant in Cleveland?  L’Albatros

12. Where did you grow up and how did you end up in Cleveland? What’s your favorite thing about Cleveland and what drives you nuts? I grew up in Alsace, France, and moved to the US in my twenties.  After working in Illinois and Texas, I joined Giant Eagle 7 years ago and moved to Cleveland.  This is the best decision I ever made.  I love the people here; they are very friendly and welcoming.

13. Bottle Shock or Sideways? These are both good movies – this is what I know about one, and hear about the other.  I watched Sideways when it was released and loved it; I have yet to watch Bottle Shock.

14. Biggest misconception about wine? The cellar isn’t for every wine.  Not all wines improve with age, so be sure to ask before you buy.  Use your local wine steward as a resource: describe wines you’ve loved in the past, or bring in labels, and they will likely will point you toward something really delicious.  Also, while serving wine, “room temperature” doesn’t mean “warm” – somewhere in the 65 degrees range is as hot as any wine should get. Think about it – “room temperature” in a stone lodge in Italy is a lot cooler than a sweltering wine bar in mid-summer.  And while we’re on the topic of temperature, the chemistry and taste of wine changes if it is rapidly cooled.  So rather than throwing a bottle of white wine in the freezer to chill it, leave it in the fridge overnight and then take it out an hour before drinking it to let it warm up slowly.  You’ll be amazed at how much richer the same bottle can taste.

15. What wineries are must-see at Vintage Ohio? Breitenbach, Debonne, Ferrante, Maize Valley, Wolf Creek.

i heart wine dinners (as in abc wine at greenhouse)

wine“What kind of wine do you like to drink?” asked Jim Clendenen, named winemaker of the year in 1991 by Food & Wine and in 1992 by the Los Angeles Times for his Santa Barbara winery, Au Bon Climat. “Usually cabs – heavy, full-bodied, cabs,” I replied. “Oh. Then I’m afraid I’m not going to make you very happy,” he quickly answered.

Jim was seated at our table for the Au Bon Climat wine dinner at The Greenhouse Tavern last week. Actually, we had quite the table. In addition to Jim, was one of my best gal pals, Lori, Charity (I Heart Cleveland and Chartreuse), Ruth (Gatherings Kitchen) and Drew Neiman of Neiman Cellars. The company and conversation, coupled with the perfectly-paired courses and wine made for an exceptionally fun evening.

Chef Jonathon Sawyer prepared five courses for the dinner based on wine his team sampled and selected prior to:

  1. Potato crusted monk fish (poor man’s lobster) with herb salad / paired with Au Bon Climat pinot blanc
  2. Corn roasted pork with spicy soubise and fresno chilis / paired with Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay
  3. Ratatouille with zucchini flower, Chevre de Provencal, tomato broth and fresh herbs de Provence / paired with Santa Barbara Pinot Noir
  4. Fatted calf with poached cherry, proper polenta and filbert (hazelnuts) / paired with Isabelle pinot noir
  5. Pinot noir granita / paired with Dogfish Head Red & White

It’s true, I like heavy wines. I can’t even tell you the last time I intentionally ordered a white wine out (best guess latewine1 ‘90s). So truth be told, I was fully expecting to walk away with another ridiculously good meal from Greenhouse and sample a few wines, but not really be impressed by any of them.

I’m really beginning to enjoy when I’m wrong. I was really taken back by how much I liked the wine. While I still don’t think ordering white out or picking up a bottle is in my near future (unless for company), I certainly appreciated the whites we sampled, especially the chardonnay (even more so with the fried hominy in the pork). But what really won me over were the pinot noirs. I have tried to like this wine before and sampled plenty. But it just never did it for me. So I expected more of the same here. Not even close. These were light – but also rich. I was smitten. First with the Santa Barbara pinot but then came the true gem of the night, the Isabelle pinot named after his daughter (actually, the original name of this wine was Isabelle Morgan but he dropped Morgan from the name after his divorce – you learn a lot when seated with the winemaker!). Of course it was also the most expensive wine of the night at $55 a bottle, but it was worth it. In fact, I bought a bottle that night to enjoy with Jamie, and suspect more bottles are in our future.

Jim, a native of Akron, moved to California in the ‘60s. His winery, which means a well-balanced vineyard, was also listed on Robert Parker’s Best Wineries of the World in 1989 and 1990. He’s also recognized by Food & Wine as a master cook for sharing several published recipes with the magazine.

In between each course and prior to the start of our dinner, both Jim and Jonathon would talk and explain their approach. The two of them had great delivery and obvious enthusiasm for what we were about to experience. I actually learned quite a bit, without feeling like I was just schooled.

wine2Jonathon explained that he is fairly picky with the wine dinners and only interested in holding them when the winemaker is willing to come in and represent themselves. He explained that his goal is for the quality of the wine to enhance the quality of the food and to peacefully coexist. When this can happen, he shared, is when they thoroughly enjoy putting together these types of dinners for people to experience food and wine in a way they might normally not.

When talking about his wines, Jim shared that his winery was the first to get rid of asbestos, long before wineries were told they had to. He shared that he makes healthy wine – not because he “cares” about our health per se, but because he drinks more wine than anyone he knows and wants to be healthy. His wines, he added, have low alcohol content and low acidity. He joked that he likes to drink early and drink often, and with his wines, he can (low alcohol or not, I did have to take a few Excedrin in the morning!).

As for his favorite wine, that would be pinot noir – whether it’s his or someone else’s. He explained that it goes with absolutely everything. Especially duck with crushed raspberries and maybe a little garlic and ginger, his favorite pairing.

As for what we ate, once again the chef and his team made me a very happy woman. Seriously, these people can cook and have yet to disappoint me. These types of dinners are fun because you get to sample things not typically found on the menu and I would imagine it gives them an opportunity to play around and get creative. My favorite of the night though was the fatted calf – hands-down. As Sawyer put it, this animal lived a wonderful life, not as long as their parents perhaps, but still enjoyable.

Thanks again to GHT for inviting me to this dinner and for allowing me to give away a pair on the blog. Now seeing first-hand the time that goes into planning and executing these events, and how seriously the team takes them, I highly recommend checking out the next one for yourself. You will not be disappointed.

a unique ohio wine sampling experience

Do you think the glass you use to enjoy your wine makes a difference?

On August 5, Maximillian Riedel will be in our area to  sample Ohio wines and to demonstrate exactly how his family’s stemware provides an exceptional tasting experience vis a vis ‘regular’ wine glasses.

Riedel, as you may know, has been in the glass business for 300 years. Maximillian is the 11th-generation Austrian crystal maker keeping the family business intact. Professor Claus J. Riedel was the first designer to recognize that the bouquet, taste, balance and finish of wines are affected by the shape of the glass from which they are drunk.  Fifty years ago, he began pioneering work to create stemware that would match and complement different wines.  In the late 1950’s, Riedel started to produce glasses that were a design revolution.  Thin-blown, unadorned, reducing the design to its essence:  bowl, stem, and base.

Working with experienced tasters, Riedel discovered that wine enjoyed from his glasses showed more depth and better balance than when served in other glasses.  According to Robert M. Parker, Jr. of The Wine Advocate, “The finest glasses for both technical and hedonistic purposes are those made by Riedel.  The effect of these glasses on fine wine is profound.  I cannot emphasize enough what a difference they make.”

If you are into wine,  now you have the opportunity to learn  first-hand why exactly there is a difference and participate in a tasting conducted by a member of this iconic family featuring wines selected by the Riedel team. Wines to be sampled include: 2007 Grand River Valley Reserve Chardonnay from Debonne’ Vineyards in Madison, 2008 Grand River Valley Gewürztraminer from Ferrante Winery in Geneva, 2008 Grand River Valley Pinot Noir Select from St. Joseph Vineyard in Thompson and from Dover, Breitenbach Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.

The event will take place at Quail Hollow and include a cheese sampling and heavy hors d’oeuvres. Additionally, each guest will receive a set of Riedel glasses, valued at $125. The event is from 6:30 p.m. – 9 p.m. and costs $95 per person. There are a limited amount of seats available.

This Riedel event launches Vintage Ohio weekend at Lake Farmpark August 6 – 7. Cleveland Foodie readers can get special discounted tickets to Vintage Ohio by using code 2010CLFD.

This post was sponsored by the Ohio Wine Producers Association.

food & wine benefit for veggie u

VegUI think my head has been in the clouds. How can I call myself a foodie and daily profess my love of food to you and yet not be fully aware of The Chef’s Garden and The Culinary Vegetable Institute? Sure, I’ve heard of this place near Sandusky and knew bits and pieces through various things I’ve read, but never really took the time to fully understand just what a gem this place is, who the people were behind it, what they are doing for chefs all over the world and most importantly, how they are helping kids right in my backyard. That all changed last year when I was invited to participate in one of their monthly dinners at The Culinary Vegetable Institute  and then made it my mission to learn all I could, specifically about Veggie U which you may recall became a big focus of the blog earlier this year (and will again in the winter).

For the past 8 years, The Culinary Vegetable Institute and The Chef’schefs Garden host a fundraiser to support and promote Veggie U. This year we were lucky enough to attend the Food & Wine celebration with over 30 participating chefs and wineries offering tastings throughout the night on the grounds of the farm under one big (read: HOT) tent. Despite the heat (and bugs), it was a simply outstanding event. We ate, drank, ate some more, made some new friends, reacquainted with old ones, and then ate and drank once again. Truthfully, this was a fabulous event and evening – we had a ball and will continue to attend and support Veggie U and its mission of helping kids make better food choices and understand where their food comes from for years to come.

In between alfood2l the good eats, chatter and laughter, we learned a  little Cleveland  food scoop.

I ran into the ladies behind The Lounging Gourmet.
I ran into the ladies behind The Lounging Gourmet.

After meeting and briefly talking with Jeni Britton Bauer of Jeni’s Ice Cream, she shared that she’s working on a cookbook that will spill all her delicious little secrets and is actively scouting out Cleveland for a location (maybe by this spring?). Speaking of cookbooks, you may have heard that the Sawyers are working on one too – and getting fairly close to sharing plans for restaurant #2. Finally, ran into a former classmate of mine, Scott Kuhn, who shared that he’s in the process of a major renovation of an old building on the other end of Chagrin Falls (was formerly private property up until now) for a microbrewery (he’s hoping it will mirror some of his favorites in Portland). Much more to come on this.

foodMy favorite dish of the night was a tie between the braised pork belly from chef Craig Deihl at  Cypress in Charleston (I’m heading outside Charleston for vacation this August, will have to make a trip to check out his restaurant) and squash blossoms stuffed with sweet corn, Chevre and spicy peach chutney via chef Michael demoDelligatta from The Inn at Verailles. Wow. Wow. Wow. I was not familiar with him or this inn, but what an impression this dish made. I also enjoyed the watermelon and cucumber salad from Three Birds and bison flank steak bahn mi with foie gras butter and your choice of toppings from chef Beej Flamholz. Best in show would have to go to Ann Blackwood of Kalahari. She had at least five beautifully decorated desserts with amazing detail. Personally, I didn’t care for the taste of the sweets but Jamie sure did, making a few stops for these tiny chocolate ganache bites with lavender flowers. Chef Jonathon Sawyer of The Greenhouse Tavern demoing his Ratatouille Provence along with Jay (also pictured above with chef Lee Ann Wong, Jay and Amelia) was also fun and informative.

Thanks to Michelle Demuth-Bibb of The Chef’s Garden for sharing some of the pics.

mekong river

I posted on Facebook that I was heading to Mekong River for the first time last month and someone told me not to look at the carpet. I must admit, I’ve never been told this before and it made me chuckle. So of course the first thing I did upon walking inside was look straight down and inspect every open inch available to me.

If you have been there before, you probably know why this person shared this warning of sorts. If you have never been  before and saw what I saw, you may have spun around and walked out. I know I might have if I wasn’t tipped off by some trusted sources to look beyond the decor and focus on the food. Which is what I will share with you today. Mekong River in Cleveland Heights boasts a wonderful menu (for the most part). The decor, unfortunately, is clearly not a priority. The carpet is all tattered and torn and stained, dust outlines paintings and a fresh coat of paint was needed several times over – decades ago. It’s not even one of those quirky, borderline charming in a forgotten kinda way spaces that one could overlook. It’s just plain bad. And if you’re like me, the overall atmosphere of a place is almost just as important as the food. Now I don’t mean I need Lola-quality decor every time I dine. Quite the opposite. I’m all for dives. But Mekong River is in its own category and that’s why if I go back, it will be for takeout.

Enough decor chatter, let’s focus on the food. For the most part, I really enjoyed my meal. The flavors, aromas and Thai and Cambodian combinations were tempting from the moment I stepped inside. The appetizers were a hit, especially the Thai curry puffs (you need to try these!). I also enjoyed the wonderfully fragrant samlaw machu kreoung – a true one-bowl wonder of layers of great flavor. I can’t say Mekong is my favorite for Thai, but I can certainly see why it’s so well-liked and has a fair amount of devotees.

Like always, here’s part of the review or you can read the full post here:

If you’re in the mood for Thai, head to Cleveland Heights, which seems to boast a Thai restaurant in just about every main section of the city. One in particular, Mekong River, is often referred to as the best in the area as well as a favorite take-out stop for several area chefs.

Food: Thai and Cambodian are the focus of Mekong River, named after one of the world’s longest rivers. There’s no shortage of choices here, with several tempting pages ranging from starters, soups, curry, Thai and Cambodian entrées, noodles and fried rice specialties and a lengthy offering of vegetarian choices.

On our visit, we started with an order of the crab Rangoon ($4.99), wontons filled with cream cheese, crab meat and seasoning and Thai curry puffs ($5.99), ground chicken, sweet potatoes, onions and cilantro wrapped in a puff pastry served with a thick peanut sauce. Entrées included seafood samlaw machu kreoung, a sour pungent Cambodian stew with ground lemon grass, celery, eggplant, jalapeño, garlic, galanga, tumeric and tamarind sauce served with white rice ($13.99), and pad Thai, perhaps the most often ordered Thai dish with noodles, bean sprouts, scallion, eggs, bay scallops and shrimp ($13.99).

The star of this outing was definitely the appetizers, particularly the Thai curry puffs. These thick, small pie-like starters were savory and beyond satisfying. A trip back just for this is in our future.

Dinners were not as favorable. We’ve sampled pad Thai at just about every Thai restaurant around and this version was not among our favorites (though if you like your pad Thai a little less sweet and light on the peanuts, you might want to try this). The samlaw machu kreoung was much more memorable. This heavily fragrant dish is a one bowl wonder with many layers of flavor, including tangy, sweet and spicy. It’s an impressive dish, especially how it all seems to work so well together.

Bottom line: While the Heights has no shortage of ethnic eats, we’re not yet ready to crown Mekong as our favorite for Thai. It does, however, offer wonderful options and is worth checking out—for takeout.

cook like rocco (lamb burgers)

Regular readers know I’m a huge fan of chef Rocco Whalen of Fahrenheit. With that personality of his and infectious passion for our city, how can you not be? And now I have two more reasons: his recipe for lamb burgers and some fun random bits of quirkiness he shares with us at the end of this post.  (PS, next time you see Rocco – like perhaps tomorrow at the Taste of Tremont – be sure to congratulate him on his recent marriage.)

Rocco’s Lamb Burgers (makes 8, 6 oz burgers)

3 # ground lamb
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
 3 teaspoons mustard (French)
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper   

Lemon Dill Dressing

1 cup yogurt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced dill
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon mustard
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar  
Salt and pepper  
-

Mix all ingredients together. Top burgers with Bulgarian Feta and Rocco suggests using  soft egg rolls, with a nice charred burger.

This post was sponsored by Heinen’s. When making these burgers at home, Carolyn Maldonado, a wine consultant from the Pepper Pike store, suggests Petite Sirah or White Blend from X Winery (both $12.99). She explains that the Petite Sirah is great to pair with lamb because it’s a rich wine and is a blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The White Blend would complement the lemon and dill flavors in the dressing and contains Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino and others.

Fun food for thoughts with Rocco Whalen:

1. Favorite non-chef owned restaurant in Cleveland? Diamond Grill-Akron

2. Clogs or Converse Chucks? Converse

3. Favorite non-cooking activity? Thai massage

4. Favorite coffee? Civilization

5. If you were held up at gunpoint and shoved into a walk-in, which chef’s walk-in would it be? Baricelli  

6.Watch of preference?Raymond Weil

7. Shirts or skins? Skins  

8.Gravestone will say? In short ribs we trusted

9. Favorite junk food? Slim Jims  

10. Would you have rather sacked John Elway on the last play of the famous “drive” and still potentially lost the superbowl or save the game in World Series game 7 against the Marlins in 1997 ala Jose Mesa?  Sacked Elway

head to the circle

wow-2010-finalJust a friendly reminder that if you’re not participating in Wade Oval Wednesdays, you’re missing out. It’s one of my favorite Cleveland summertime activities, and I look forward to when our daughter is just a bit  older and she’ll be able to appreciate some of the happenings taking place mid-week, too (like when they showed The Goonies for movie night – a classic!).

Speaking of the true Cleveland gem that is University Circle, be sure to take advantage of the Gourmets in the Garden series put on by the Cleveland Botanical Garden. Cooking demos by our local chefs in a beautiful setting – it’s a great way to spend $10.

And while it’s still a ways off, the RIPE! Food and Garden Festival will take place September 24 – 26 at the Cleveland Botanical Garden. This event celebrates both the edible gardening revolution and Northeast Ohio’s growing commitment to supporting and eating local food.

The 3-day festival begins with a special Harvest Moon Preview Dinner on September 23 on Wade Oval Ripe with Dates featuring cuisine by chefs Doug Katz of Fire and Ben Bebenroth of Spice of Life Catering Co. Participants  then choose among 3 tracks of programs: culinary, gardening, and childrens. Each track includes comparative tastings, demonstrations and appearances by gardening and local food experts. An onsite farmers market and garden marketplace will offer visitors an opportunity to take home garden-related products as well as local treats, including produce, cheeses, honeys, apples, etc. Local restaurants will be on hand selling harvest-inspired, ready-to-eat dishes. Children will also be able to sample local offerings and gain an appreciation for the benefits of healthy eating at special programs designed in the Hershey Children’s Garden.

anthony bourdain on harvey pekar & cleveland

I came across this article via a friend’s post on Facebook and felt compelled to share it. It’s beautifully written and a simply lovely tribute to a great Clevelander and our wonderful city. Michael Ruhlman posted that the Travel Channel will re-air the Cleveland episode this Monday at 9.

From Anthony Bourdain’s Blog:

A few days ago, the city of Cleveland lost a truly great and important man. And I’m not talking about LeBron James. A hundred years from now, few–other than a few sports nerds–will remember him as much more than statistics on a long ago basketball court.

They will, however, remember Harvey Pekar, whose life and works will surely remain an enduring reference point of late 20th and early 21st century cultural history. Like those other giants of their eras, Twain, Whitman, Dos Passos, Kerouac, Kesey, the times he lived in cannot adequately be remembered without him.

It is true enough to say that he was the “poet laureate of Cleveland” or to describe his American Splendor as “Homeric”, but those descriptives are still inadequate. He was the perfect man for his times, straddling…everything: the underground comic revolution of the 60’s, the creation and transformation of the graphic novel, independent film, television, music (the classic jazz he championed relentlessly throughout his life).

He was famed as a “curmudgeon”, a “crank” and a “misanthrope” yet found beauty and heroism where few others even bothered to look. In a post-ironic and post-Seinfeldian universe he was the last romantic–his work sincere, heartfelt, alternately dead serious and wryly affectionate. The last man standing to wonder out loud, “what happened here?”

His continuing compulsion to wonder what’s wrong with everybody else was both source of entertainment and the only position of conscience a man could take.

After all, Cleveland, the city he lived in and loved, had, he reminded us, lost half it’s population since the 1950s. A place whose great buildings and bridges and factories had once exemplified 20th century optimism needed its Harvey Pekar.

“What went wrong here?” is an unpopular question with the type of city fathers and civic boosters for whom convention centers and pedestrian malls are the answers to all society’s ills but Harvey captured and chronicled every day what was–and will always be–beautiful about Cleveland: the still majestic gorgeousness of what once was–the uniquely quirky charm of what remains, the delightfully offbeat attitude of those who struggle to go on in a city they love and would never dream of leaving.
What a two minute overview might depict as a dying, post-industrial town, Harvey celebrated as a living, breathing, richly textured society.

A place so incongruously and uniquely…seductive that I often fantasize about making my home there. Though I’ve made television all over the world, often in faraway and “exotic” places, it’s the Cleveland episode that is my favorite–and one about which I am most proud.

That show was unique among over a hundred others in that everything–absolutely everything–went perfectly and exactly as planned. Unlike every other episode, pretty much everything had been “written” (or at least planned out) in advance: the look, the American Splendor graphics, destinations, subjects and content. In the middle of a blizzard in the dead of winter, we got exactly what we were looking for. We wanted American Splendor and that’s what we got.

This is due entirely to Harvey (and the incredible Joyce). Harvey may have had a reputation as cantankerous, TV-averse and difficult but from the very first minute he and his family were a delight. They opened up their lives to us in every way they could. They were exactly as they appeared in the great graphic novels and in the film–only warmer and even nicer.

The look, the tone, the sound, the whole feel of the episode that followed was Harvey’s. There was a moment at Sokolowski’s I’ll always remember as quintessential Pekar–that perfectly encapsulated the way we all felt absorbed in to PekarWorld. We’d just finished shooting a scene with Harvey, Toby Radloff and Michael Ruhlman–and Danielle, Harvey’s daughter, who’d been hanging out off- camera, temporarily went missing–out of Harvey’s watchful gaze. I remember looking at him, swiveling his head frantically, the very picture of parental concern and exasperation and actually SEEING comic book curlicues, exclamation points, question marks and smoke emanating from his head. He had made the world around him his world. We were–all of us– just passing through.

A few great artists come to “own” their territory.
As Joseph Mitchell once owned New York and Zola owned Paris, Harvey Pekar owned not just Cleveland but all those places in the American Heartland where people wake up every day, go to work, do the best they can–and in spite of the vast and overwhelming forces that conspire to disappoint them–go on, try as best as possible to do right by the people around them, to attain that most difficult of ideals: to be “good” people.

“Our man” as Harvey often referred to himself in his work, was a good man. An important man. A “great American” is an expression that has been cheapened with over-use, but if these words ever meant anything, they surely describe Harvey Pekar.

He was great. He was American.

For him to have come from anywhere else would be unthinkable. He will be remembered. He will be missed.