On June 21 at 7 p.m., Dante will welcome in summer with a five-course vegetarian menu paired with Ohio wines from Laurello Vineyards from the Grand River Valley. The cost is $69 per person plus tax and tip. The winemaker will be on-hand sharing the background and highlights of his wines and why they have been paired with each dish.  Dante regularly carries the Laurello 2007 cab franc and the sweet Genevieve. According to Dante’s GM, Phillip Hockey, the cab franc, with its little spice, is a great food wine and the sweet genevieve is a vidal blanc ice wine named after Larry Laurello’s mother.

The menu:

• Ricotta tartlet with balsamic Glazed Strawberries, arugula, lemon confit, cardamom
  2009, Josephine
• Roasted king mushrooms, pickled and seared watermelon, lemon thyme
  2009, Chardonnay
• Herb braised beets and butter lettuce, candied pecans, honeydew melon
  2008, Pinot Noir
• Summer ratatouille, potato basil gratin, roasted eggplant puree
  2007, Cab Franc
• Frozen lemon soufflé, toasted coconut, pineapple compote, margarita sorbet
  Vidal Blanc, Sweet Genevieve, Ice Wine

To make your reservation, or to learn more, call the restaurant today at 216.274.1200. This post was sponsored by The Ohio Grape Industries Committee. To celebrate Ohio’s wines, known as some of the best in the country, and their significant impact on Ohio’s economy, Ohio Gov. John R. Kasich declared June “Ohio Wine Month”.

Ohio’s 148 wineries tend to 1,600 acres of grapes that produce more than 1 million gallons of wine each year. Wineries, located all over the state, offer wine tastings, educational day trips, and tours to educate about the art of wine making and the top quality of Ohio wines.

For a limited time, consumers can also find Ohio wines at their favorite restaurants throughout Cleveland. Select restaurants will feature Ohio Quality Wines by the glass or bottle from June through August. According to a 2008 Economic Impact report, Ohio’s grape and wine industry generates more than $580 million in economic activity that supports local communities while producing a superior agricultural product. The Ohio grape and wine industry also employs more than 4,000 people, providing a payroll of $124.2 million. Visit here to learn more.

I like Dante more and more after each visit. And I especially like its location, conveniently located across from Banyan Tree, which allows for some pre-dinner shopping.

Our meal started off with two surprising glasses of prosecco. Our server mixed us up with another couple celebrating an anniversary or birthday (they ask during the reservation if you’re celebrating anything special – apparently if you are, they throw in a nice little treat). Even after we told her we were just out for a nice dinner, she said, oh well – happy Friday then and enjoy. We did, or rather, Jamie did. I was saving my one weekly allotted drink for a glass of cabernet with dinner.

Our meal started off with an order of the crispy calamari and rock shrimp with a chili mayo, a favorite of Jamie’s. Then onto the truffled chicken miso soup for me and banana butternut squash soup with cinnamon foam for Jamie. For dinner, I opted for two tastings of the pasta: the pappardelle bolognese and linguine carbonara.

If you know anything about Dante, you know he’s a master at Asian cooking (which is why I am eagerly waiting for Ginko to open!), and this soup was a perfect example. The aromas from both soups were heavenly, but mine especially was beyond good – I thoroughly enjoyed every bite and even contemplated another bowl. As for the pastas, his tasting portions are really quite generous. I can’t imagine how someone could eat a full portion. I had leftovers – and I’m eating for two. Of the two I sampled, I definitely enjoyed the carbonara with its beautifully poached egg more. The pappardelle was nice, but not as enjoyable as a previous visit.

We skipped dessert because we were both too full, though I was tempted by the cheese selection. All in all, it was truly a wonderful night out in Tremont. Spring-like weather, crowded streets, restaurants and store fronts, and of course, a wonderful meal accompanied by a very special reveal.

Oh, and by the way, we’re having another girl!

Kate Krader is the restaurant editor for Food & Wine. She’s well-respected, well-known, and the envy of many (ok, at least one – me).

How do you discover best new chefs? How are they vetted? What’s the criteria? What was it about Jonathon Sawyer? It’s a year-round process. There aren’t any age requirements, except that a chef has to have been in charge of a kitchen for at least five years (not necessarily in a row). We look all around the country, from big to small cities. We have a network of people who nominate chefs, from professionals in the industry, to food writers, bloggers, and previous winners.

I came to Cleveland in January to see Jon. I instantly loved him! When you walk into Greenhouse, there’s just something about the energy. It was very inviting. I instantly felt comfortable. I can’t articulate it, but I just really liked it. Not that that is part of the BNC criteria, I just think it’s worth sharing. Jon has that same energy and passion. And he has a fun point of view on food and with his menu. I’ve never seen clams and foie gras – it’s one of the best dishes I’ve had all year. I still think about how good and smart it is. And his fries – it’s the best new version of hash browns. I just love it.

Jon executes food really well. He’s creative, like his Death Row Dinners. Love this – what a great idea! And he’s geeky about certain things, like the vinegars. We’re just really happy with him. I didn’t have anything at Greenhouse that I didn’t love. He’s a genius at work. It’s just a great place and we love all that he’s got going on – and is green, and is Ohio’s first green restaurant. What an accomplishment.

What else did you do in Cleveland? What’s your culinary viewpoint on Cleveland? What can we continue to improve? What Cleveland restaurant do you wish was in NYC? I wish Greenhouse was in NYC! While I was there, I also went to Dante. Thought it was a really cool restaurant and loved the space, look of the menu.  I had some good dishes and some so so dishes but felt it had potential (she acknowledged she was there shortly after opening and that may have had something to do with it). Overall, Dante (Boccuzzi) has a great reputation and I’m sure he’ll do well. Went to Lucky’s, thought it was awesome (went with Laura Taxel). Liked the homegrown aesthetic and energy – such a great, fun place. I went to school in Ohio (Kenyon College in Gambier) so I’m loyal to the state, even though I haven’t been back in awhile – but I plan to come back this summer. Also went to B Spot with Michael and Liz, who are just awesome. What crazy milkshakes he has – if someone is counting calories, look out!

Here’s my personal plea to Cleveland – open on Sundays! There were so many other things that I wanted to do and see but couldn’t because they weren’t open. Like the (West Side) Market and The Sausage Shoppe. I also didn’t get a chance to do the The Velvet Tango Room – that’s one of the great bars in the country.

Michael Symon really raised the profile of Cleveland and the market in general. If there’s any silver lining to the down economy, it’s that a lot of chefs are thinking – why work in NY, too expensive. Instead, they are going home, often to the Midwest, and opening their own place in their hometown utilizing the skills they learned here – the native kids coming home. I think you’re seeing that a lot, especially in cities like Cleveland. Cleveland really does have a lot of talented chefs.

Personally, I think the Midwest is the most exciting food destination in the country right now. Chicago is good, of course, but because of the high interest on knowing farmers and purveyors and where your food comes from, Midwest, especially Cleveland, is huge right now. There are so many good producers; it’s a great opportunity for Ohio. The chefs know exactly where the food comes from and are sharing that on the menu and telling you their stories – people want to know that. You guys have been doing great things for so long now, and it’s really creeping up on the national radar.

There is something about your city on many, many levels. I’ll be back!

What are the trends in food right now? What restaurants do we need to be on the lookout for when traveling? In NYC, there’s a big Italian trend. Seeing lots of regional Italian, and people focusing on one specific area. Also veggies. Mario Batali had been leading this in many ways, with the focus on moving protein to the side of the plate and focus more on vegetables. It’s an interesting time right now. People are more ambitious and cooking what’s in their heart, and we’re seeing it pay off. It’s also a big year for dessert – the year of the pastry chef.

One restaurant Kate mentioned was Locanda Verde in the Greenwich Hotel in NYC. She said it’s among her favorites and highly recommends checking out. The chef, Andrew Carmellini, is from Cleveland and Robert De Niro is part owner.

Complete this sentence: ______________ is the new black. Vegetables.

What’s the first thing you notice when you walk into a restaurant? I’m really sensitive to the energy. Are people talking? It’s weird when no one is talking and you see a couple just staring at each other. Not that that is the restaurant’s fault, but you notice it. There’s an X factor to a restaurant. And there’s something about a restaurant putting you in a good mood and creating a feeling. I can’t help but notice the level of conversation – this makes me happy.  I like when the staff presumes a level of interest and intelligence.  I saw this at The Greenhouse – extra special credit for them.  For example, if someone isn’t familiar with the wine or comfortable making a good wine recommendation, I like when they get someone who is. If you don’t know, fine, but go that extra step to have people that do know and can pass the information on.

Frank Bruni of The New York Times said once if he opened a restaurant, he’d install a super nice front of the house person as well as someone who answers the phone.  I agree. If a hostess is rude and makes me wait while they chat about their personal lives, I get annoyed. Be nice and friendly. It’s probably not as much of an issue in Cleveland as it is in NY.

If you could be one chef for a day, who would it be? Mario Batali. He’s someone who came up with me while I was starting out at F&W and I had always idolized him. It’s something to see him in action. But I’d only want to be him for one day. I also like chefs that just focus on one restaurant and would want to be one of those chefs for a day. I can appreciate the empire that some chefs have built, like Batali, but I also like those chefs that are obsessed with their one restaurant.

(This answer is why I really liked her – Mario Batali is my chef crush)

Can Cleveland host a season of Top Chef (this was a reader question)? I think if LeBron can take you to a championship, it will raise your profile. You’re still a little bit away, but could get there.

Do you shop at farmer’s markets or buy directly from farmers (another reader question)? I don’t get to cook much at home (though she admits she makes the best brownies in the world and is good with pasta), but when I do I like farmer’s markets.

Last song(s) downloaded? Kate shared that she has a habit of downloading a song or two and then playing them over and over. She said she’s been playing One Below by The Watts (discovered on Pandora), The Good Life by Kanye West and Just Say Yes by Snow Patrol – over and over.

Last meal on Earth? Cheese fondue, something super spicy – maybe an Ethiopian dish, pasta and chocolate chip cookie dough.

I met some friends to celebrate some good things happening in their lives (new home and pregnancy). I was running early, so I happily stopped at Banyan Tree for a few goodies – a couple fun finds for me and even Natalie (great kids stuff). What a fantastic store, I always find the best things there.

When I got to Dante, I was seated in the back, right in front of the semi-private four-top inside the bank vault. Such a great seating area – and next to the deluxe candy cart (you’re encouraged to visit the cart post dinner for a treat – Dante’s version of the after-dinner mint). The restaurant itself was nicely packed given it was a Monday. Right before ordering, Dante came out for a quick chat. He shared that the patio will hopefully be open in a month and is thinking January for the finished basement/sushi restaurant. If you’ve had Dante’s sushi, then you know that’s just too long to wait (the guy’s got mad sushi skills, thanks to his time at Nobu Milan). He agrees, and shared he’s hoping to start a sushi happy hour, perhaps as early as next week.

After perusing the menu, which has a lot of new items for spring, I opted to try a variety: oysters with parsley and mignonette ice, braised fennel with arugula and oranges (for the table), a cup of the saffron fish fume with mini shrimp dumplings, orzo and fennel and a tasting of the circle pasta with green olives, tomatoes and calamari. I also tried some of my friends spring ramp and wild mushroom polenta and skirt steak. We also tried the pappardelle bolognese with beef, veal and pork ragu, which Dante sent out (he called it “peace offering pasta” – a gesture I very much appreciated).

Aside from the food, what I liked so much about the old Dante was the variety of tastings you could try. I was happy that this same thought applies here, too. Nearly everything I tried was simply wonderful. The oysters were perfectly fresh (actually, just perfect in general), the fennel, though different from the first time I tried it, was so flavorful and quite satisfying and the few bites polenta  was rich but  heavenly. As for the pastas, the circles was nice, but I wouldn’t be in a hurry to order it again. The standout was easily the ragu with thick, homemade noodles. This dish reminded me of Sunday supper at my grandma’s. She would love this dish. I’m still thinking about this dish and the chunks of meat that I was scraping up long after the noodles disappeared. Must-try pasta at its finest.

While I frequented the old location, I’m so happy Dante moved to Tremont. This is a much better fit for him (and more convenient for me!). I’m looking forward to going back when the patio opens, and especially when he starts rolling sushi again.

Oh, and by the way, service rocked.

Confit of lamb & spring garlic w/ preserved lemons & watercress

Ingredients:

Method: Marinate the lamb shoulder with the spices, herbs, brandy and green garlic.  Season the meat with salt and pepper and let sit for 5 hours.   Warm the duck fat to a liquid state and pour it over the lamb and green garlic covering them completely.  Cook in a 300 degree oven for 2 hours till fork tender.   Slice and serve warm. Remove the inner fruit of the lemon leaving the thick rind and pith.  Dice the skin into small dice.  In a small pot bring to a boil the water, sugar, and rind.  Cook at a low simmer until tender and sweetened. Drain and chill.  Add the juice back to the rind. In a small pot bring water a boil.  Blanche the watercress leaves and stems for 2 seconds.  Immediately place it into ice water to chill.  Blend with the olive oil in a blender into a smooth puree.  Strain to insure that it is smooth.  Keep cold.

Plating: Spoon a pool of the puree down on the plate.  Place the sliced warm lamb in the center of the puree.  Dress it with the green garlic and lemon dice.

Orzo risotto w/ spring garlic & forest mushrooms

Ingredients:

Method: In a large pot over low heat, slowly cook the onions in olive oil until they are translucent and tender.   Season the onions with salt and pepper. In a separate sauce pot bring the stock to a boil and keep hot.  Add the orzo pasta to the onions and mix thoroughly.  Gradually add the stock to the pasta and cover completely.  Cook the pasta at a low simmer and stir carefully to avoid sticking.  Cut the mushrooms and spring garlic into a large dice.   In a large sauté pan heat the olive oil and sear the wild mushrooms and spring garlic golden brown.  Add the whole butter and the shallots.  Let the butter become golden brown then strain the mushrooms, and garlic and reserve .   Shave the block of Parmesan cheese with a potato peeler to get thin shavings.  In a cold bowl, whisk the cream until slightly thick.  Cook the pasta until it is firm to the bite.   Finish the pasta with truffle butter, Parmesan cheese, and baby arugula.   Add the heavy cream at the very end before serving.   In a large bowl spoon the pasta in the center and place the mushrooms and garlic over the top.  Garnish the dish with the Parmesan cheese shavings.

________________________________________

This post was sponsored by Heinen’s. When making these dishes at home, Laurie Toth, a certified sommelier who works in the wine department at the Avon store, shares these thoughts for wine pairings:

“The Orzo Pasta Risotto recipe screams an Italian wine and I would recommend a Dolcetto d’Alba (Silvio Grasso Dolcetto, $14.99).  This is a light, dry, Italian wine that pairs well with mushrooms, Parmesan, garlic and orzo pasta.  There are a couple of pairings that would work with the Lamb, however. For this recipe I am recommending a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the Rhone region of France.  The wine has game (suggestive of wild animals), wild herbs, spice and pepper notes which are similar to the ingredients of the recipe.  Domaine des Senechaus has a Châteauneuf-du-Pape on sale for $34.99 that would be a wonderful pairing with the lamb.”

First, the facts. We ate at Dante last Saturday night at 7 p.m. (everyone was on time). We ordered by 7:30. It was after 9 when we got our first course and they were done serving by 10:30 (we had to ask for our dessert to go). Jamie ordered the tasting (which is included in the review); the rest of the party had a variety of items. Our server never said the tastings can take longer and instead told us he’d talk with the chef about bringing a few of the tastings out at the same time so we’d all eat together. Service was slow. We expected to wait, but this was really long. And it wasn’t the wait so much that really even bothered us, but that neither our server or the GM talked to us – and we asked several times. That’s what my complaint was, that there was poor communication. And don’t tell me it’s opening week, because no one needs to be trained to say I’m sorry, the food is coming, they are really backed up, anything. I used to be the world’s worst server and I knew every excuse in the book to tell my tables (truth be told I always forgot to put the check in – like I said, I was a crappy server). And we watched other people come and go. The only thing communicated to us was a smile, shrug and at one point we were told they were shucking our oysters, only to come back 30 mins later and say they were another tables.

And the funny thing is, the server knew I was there for Metromix – not that that matters one bit and not that I ever expect anything different because of it. I’m just saying he knew because I asked him a ton of questions when we got there and explained to him why.

In my review, I clearly said it was opening week. I also clearly stated that I have no doubt these hiccups will very soon work out and encouraged everyone to go. I also said in general, that our server was great and that we have had him many times before. Further, I said the food was good! Oh, and did I mention that I encouraged others to go and offered the disclaimer of when the review took place?

So again I ask you, why all the fuss? Should I have lied and said food came out swift and that I didn’t receive a wrong dish? Is that what you expect when you read reviews, details omitted? I don’t think Metromix does, who pays me to review places on their behalf. Just the opposite – they expect full honesty, which is why I enjoy writing for them so much. Contrary, I decided no longer to freelance for Cleveland Magazine because I learned this is not something everyone values.

The question of whether or not media/bloggers should review restaurants this soon after opening keeps popping up.  And I most certainly can see valid points from all sides. But it doesn’t matter what you want, the reality is that because of social media, people are sharing their experiences these days right from the dinner table! At one point, media may have gone several times before they review, but that’s not the case anymore. Social media is a good thing and shouldn’t scare off restaurants, chefs – or anyone. Those that learn to embrace it will find it can be a powerful tool to engage with your customers. Those that choose to ignore it are in for a long battle. It’s part of our daily lives now. I’m not talking out of my ass here; this is a subject I know very well. It’s what I do for a living. People have always talked – word of mouth is the oldest form of advertising. People are still doing the same thing, just now they have a new medium to share and the speed is greater than we have ever experienced. This proves to be a great opportunity – chefs, business owners, etc. can listen to the conversation and have a direct line with their customers. Know what’s being said about you and why, learn from it and engage. I promise you, the benefits are endless.

All that being said, I do fully agree that it can still be tricky to review a place during opening week. People are learning a system and how to work together – I get that. It takes time and waits could be off and checks may be incorrect. I’ll give anyone a pass for all of this during the first few months of opening.  Heck, I don’t care if you have been open for years, I’ll always give a restaurant one free pass on service because I know how lousy I was at it (it’s repeated mistakes when I opt not to go back). This is why I clearly stated when we went and put it in context for readers. But what I think is fair game to judge right out of the gate is the food and décor. If you’re not quite yet comfortable with your food and think there is a possibility that people will find fault, then don’t open! But if you are open for business and charging full prices for food, then the food should be what you are hoping it is and it’s fair to review. We all make mistakes. I screw up constantly and there’s no shortage of people waiting to tell me. But if you’re open for business and charging away, then I think it’s totally fair to review (again – with the caveat that I do think service is the one exception).

Bottom line, I was a regular at the old Dante and plan to make numerous visits at the new location through the years. I think Dante himself is very talented and we’re lucky to have him back in Cleveland (and he’s a fellow Italian so automatic points for that). And you should go as well. I have no doubt that you won’t have anything but a wonderful experience. But I am always going to be honest. Period. And it sounds like Dante’s team has already learned from this, which is the point. So it should be nothing but happy eating from here on out.

We went last Saturday for dinner for Metromix. And let me jump ahead and say our meal was great and we will definitely be back. But let me first explain why I just may wait a bit before I do.

I’ve never run a restaurant. I’ve worked as a server and made a poor attempt at bartending for years and obviously love dining out. But I’m not going to pretend I have a clue as to the inner workings of a restaurant. I know it’s a challenge and takes the right group of people to run a successful restaurant, like any good business. But what I do know is customer service. I have clients that I deal with on a regular basis and work in an industry where nonstop communication is a main driver in all that we do. And I think we’re pretty good at it. So while the business aspect of the restaurant world is nothing I can relate to, dealing with patrons and simple communication is.

Without going into all the details, we waited a long time for our meal on Saturday night. We sat at 7 and didn’t leave until 10:30 – and not by choice. In fact, we had to ask for our dessert to go because we couldn’t wait any longer. And while Jamie had the tasting, and the rest of us had 3 courses, it was still a good two hours after we sat before we had our first bite of anything (we’re talking soups, salads, charcuterie…). Now I know the rule of thumb is 3 months for restaurants to work out all the kinks when opening, and being the first Saturday of opening week I did expect some wait, even for a group with as much talent and years of experience as Boccuzzi’s. But opening week or not, that kind of wait was simply too long, especially when we saw others eating and leaving all around (that came after). But all of this could have been excused if there was just communication. When I called to make the reservation, the woman should have reminded me (all callers)  it’s their first Saturday (just to set expectation). And when we sat down to order, the server should have again reiterated something similar. And when he saw we were close to eating our Cheap Trick bread basket, he could have offered up an apology or explanation. Same with the GM (we did ask and were basically just given a smile).  Tell us something, anything. I’m not saying they had to do anything special for us, but just a little communication can go a long way. And what was most surprising about this night was that our server was really great – knew the menu, was friendly and followed the chef form the original location. We’ve had him several times and I’ve always thought he was one of the better servers around. Because let’s face it, food is one part of the equation, but good service most definitely makes up another.

At any rate, I have no doubt things like this will be worked out in time because Boccuzzi is a professional. And in a follow-up e-mail to me he apologized and has already spoken to the staff about it that evening and how to learn from it (apparently he saw my tweets from that night).

So read the review knowing it was opening week. I assume when you go, and you really should go, that you won’t encounter a similar experience. But I wouldn’t be doing a very good job if I didn’t include this and write an honest review of our experience.

As for the food, we were quite happy. Every dish on the menu is begging to be tried – we really had a hard time deciding just what to get. Here’s a snippet of what I wrote for Metromix, or you can read the full review here. One thing I forgot to include is the noise level. We had a group of six and I had a very hard time hearing those across from me. I’m not sure if it was where we were seated or if noise in general will be an issue with this space.

Food: The modern American menu is sectioned into three tiers, with several options in tier two available as a taste, appetizer or main meal (much like his menu at the original Dante). Our server explained that several of the dishes took shape at Boccuzzi’s home during the past year. Apparently, a few of the dishes came together by mistake but worked so well they made the menu (like the barley and braised root vegetables).

This is one menu that will have you coming back again and again. That’s because nearly every dish is begging to be tried. And if you can’t make a decision, a tasting of five dishes (pre-selected) is available for $50; or $85 if you’d like it paired with wines.

On our visit, we tried the tasting menu sans wine, along with the braised fennel gratin over arugula with hazelnuts and orange slices ($7), chilled oysters served atop seaweed with a hot pepper purée ($12), the Hawaiian tuna tartare with poached egg and olive caper remoulade ($12), and a tasting of the Arborio with porcini ($4). We should note that we actually ordered a tasting of the barley with root vegetables, but this risotto came out instead.

The fennel was a perfect start to the meal and an instant favorite. All vegetables should taste this good. The incredibly fresh and nicely presented oysters were another winner. They had just the right amount of heat that was not overpowering and finished nicely with a single cilantro leaf. The beautifully-constructed plates continued with the tuna tartare surrounded by a delicate nest of tiny fried potato strings. Another must-try dish.

The only somewhat disappointing course was the risotto. Perhaps that’s because it’s not what was originally ordered as aforementioned. None the less, we happily dove into the generously-sized tasting portion. While the porcini was nicely represented, there wasn’t necessarily anything memorable about this dish that would make us eager to try again.

Décor:  If you missed the earlier mention, the new Dante was formerly a bank. A lot of the architectural elements from the space’s former life remain intact. The ornate, decorative ceiling details, the vault room complete with safety deposit boxes and even the original bank decals on the front door remain in place. However, Boccuzzi did invest a lot in the transformation of the space from bank to fine dining establishment. The combination of old and new create an eclectic space that fits right in with the neighborhood.

Insider tip: If you’re planning a special night out, or just want to be seen, the bank’s vault has been transformed into a special four top with a nice view of the former safe deposit cage which now houses all the house-made cured meats.

Come May, look for Boccuzzi to open a sushi restaurant in the basement. He featured a popular Sushi Blues night at the former location and was once the head chef at Nobu Milan. Spring plans are also underway for a courtyard.