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A beautiful stack of Mexican goodness

Who: Michelle Venorsky, aka Cleveland Foodie
What: Smoked trout and crab chilaquiles
Where: Momocho

This is one beautifully stacked plate of modern Mexican goodness. The layers of smoked trout and crab are loaded with black beans and tons of cotija cheese. Then it has this fried egg on top. When you break that yolk and it comes streaming down, it is incorporated into every bite. There are little mini tortillas and tomatilla verde, so it’s almost like a Mexican lasagna. It is just so, so unbelievably good.

Whenever I eat it, it always tastes as good as the first time I had it three years ago. The best part is I can only get through half. I can’t wait to dig into my breakfast — the leftovers — the next morning.

Happy Dog just got a whole lot happier. In the basement of everyone’s favorite neighborhood bar and hot dog destination is a new hangout, The Underdog, a 40-seat bar and game room. The Underdog will feature a full bar, three classic pinball games, shuffle board, 48 classic arcade games plus projection TV for black and white Kung Fu movies, cartoons, Saturday morning monster movies. Also, look for a Thursday night happy hour from 10 p.m. to midnight featuring 24 gourmet, housemade burgers. Literally, just 24. First come, first served.

And back upstairs, it’s the second annual pancake breakfast with Santa (free for kids) on December 10 at 10 a.m.

And way down the road at Momocho, there’s also some BIG things happening. Beginning Monday, 11/28 and throughout the holiday season, they will be open on Mondays so you can get your mod Mex fix 7 days a week. Happy hour 5 – 6:30 and open 5 – 10 p.m. Additionally, they will be closed 2/5 – 2/8 for winter break. When they reopen, look for a new look and new menu format.

Change is good, but personally I hope they don’t change too much. I’m a big fan of the current look and of course menu.

@ Happy Dog
Starting on Sunday, August 14th at 9 p.m., Happy Dog will host a viewing party for chef Chris Hodgson who is competing on The Food Network’s Next Great Food Truck Race. Both of Chris’ food trucks will be parked outside the HD for these nights.

On one of the first Sundays in August, premiering at 10 p.m. right after
Chris’ show, the Happy Dog will be featured on The Best Thing I Ever Ate
with Williams and Michael Symon.

Look for the return of the popular five-course beer dinners soon, but first, the HD is holding a three-course bacon and bourbon dinner in early September (either the 6th or 13th – will share once confirmed). The Pig and Swig event will feature a tasting of house specials featuring bacon paired with three
different bourbons.

And don’t forget about the polka happy hour, Monday night trivia and live music.

And last but not least, there’s some good stuff happening around Momocho but it’s just a bit too soon to share. Look for some scoop in the near future. Until then, head in and take advantage of my favorite summer cocktail – the cucumber margarita!

Momocho is turning 5. But hold the cards and gifts. Instead, chef/owner Eric Williams wants to celebrate the occasion by supporting his fellow chefs and the local food truck scene. On Monday, May 9^th from 6 p.m. – 9 p.m., local food trucks, including Dim and Den Sum, Fahrenheit and Umami Moto will be stationed in the Momocho parking lot selling their goods. Momocho will open the restaurant and patio (hopefully!) for seating and will sell traditional margaritas ($5) and Tecate ($2) – but that’s it, the kitchen will be closed. In fact, Momocho staff will be off that night to enjoy the night with customers and the Happy Dog staff will be taking over the bar for the night.

This is a super casual, no reservations, cash only event. See you there!

Speaking of family-friendly places, we had the perfect family dinner last week at Momocho. The last time my daughter was at Momocho, she was just a few months old. We have been there countless times since with friends and family and figured Natalie waited long enough and was time to make her return.

We arrived a few minutes before 5 and were quickly (and luckily) seated despite not having a reservation (thanks in large part to dining like seniors – it has its perks!). We had a great spot upstairs and were happy to see several other families near us celebrating a birthday.

Our server, Tom (whom we’ve had before and is himself a new papa), happily greeted us – especially Natalie -  and told us about the super secret kids menu. They offer a handful of kid-approved items, like chicken and rice and cheese quesadillas, which we ended up getting.

For ourselves, I got my usual: smoked trout and crab chilaquiles. I can’t even begin to describe just how much I love this dish and can’t ever seem to resist it. Yes, I’ve tried plenty of other items on the menu – and all leave me quite happy. But there’s just something special about this dish and I can’t seem to get enough. Natalie even tried a few bites and I think she’s now hooked, too. As for Jamie, he went with the adobo braised wild boar, based on Tom’s suggestion – and was certainly happy he did.

While we waited for our food, chef/owner Eric William stopped by to chat for a few minutes, who Natalie  tried to feed ( I don’t know where she gets it from?). She was also mesmerized by the tattoos on his arm. Her latest craze is coloring and she thought his arm was the coolest thing. So much so that when he left, she took her crayons and tried to color her own arm! But while Eric chatted with us, he was talking about how much he enjoys seeing kids in his place and said they are welcome anywhere – even the kitchen (though knowing how Natalie is in our kitchen, we wouldn’t hold him to that).

A few minutes after 6 we were done with another fabulously successful dinner at Momocho. After all the chips and crayons were accounted for, we packed up and left. And on our way out, I overheard a table say just how cute and well-behaved all those kids were.

Momocho continues to be one of our favorites and has been since the day he opened. And now, it will become a family place for us, too. Perhaps next we’ll have to take advantage of their Sunday Suppers (and maybe the tequila dinner for mom and dad).

Tequila!

The word alone conjures up fun and smiles (and a few fuzzy memories). You may recall that a few years ago Momocho, aka my favorite modern Mexican restaurant hands-down, offered these amazing tequila dinners featuring wonderfully creative dishes. And now, they are finally back!

According to chef/owner Eric Williams, the tequila dinners will be resurrected starting Monday, November 29. What’s that – Monday you say? But Momocho isn’t open on Mondays. That’s the good news part 2. Momocho will be open on Mondays beginning 11/29 and throughout December. But please note, only the tequila dinner will be available on the 29th; regular hours, menu and happy hour specials on Mondays throughout the holidays.

If you have the opportunity, I highly suggest going. We loved every bite of the dinner we participated in back in 07 (though truthfully, I can’t drink tequila the way I used to).

The next tequila dinner is planned for January. And remember, Momoho offers Sunday night suppers: 3 courses, $30 per couple.

Over at Williams’ alter ego, Happy Dog, he will be holding a five-course beer dinner on Dec 7 for $25 pp. And on Dec 11 from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., enjoy a pancake breakfast with Santa. Call Happy Dog for rezzies and more info as both are expected to sell out quickly.

Braised beef brisket (machaca)

• 5 lb piece beef brisket
• 2 cups red wine
• 20 oz tomato juice
• 1/4 cups lime juice
• 1 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup salt
• 1/2 cup chopped garlic
• 2 tbl black pepper
• 4 tbl ancho powder or 2 whole chiles
• 1 tbl cinnamon
• ½ cup coffee, ground (Guatemalan bean preferred)
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 Spanish onion, rough cut

Season brisket with coffee, ancho powder and salt. Grill-sear beef to caramelize. Cut beef into similar size pieces (3) and put in large braising pan with all remaining ingredients. Add enough water to cover brisket. Cover with foil and place in 300 degree oven for 3-4 hours. Discard whole onions and bay leaves. Remove brisket from liquid and pull all meat. Reserve liquid to reheat.

Guacamole  

• 6-8 avocados (calavo-haas avocado)
• 1 tbl salt
• 1 tbl chopped garlic
• 1/2 spanish onion diced
• 1/2 bunch cilantro minced
• 1/2 jalapeno minced
• 2 tbl lime juice
• 1/2 tsp black pepperyield

Technique: Split avocado in half and remove pit. Using a soup spoon, remove flesh. Combine avocado with garlic and salt in stainless steel or glass mixing bowl. Macerate together using a potato masher. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Amounts may vary slightly depending on size and strength of avocados and jalapeno peppers. Always taste and season with kosher salt if needed.

Variations: Fold in fresh tropical fruits (mango or pineapple), goat cheese, different chiles (chipotle or roasted poblanos) or smoked seafoods (salmon or trout).

This post was sponsored by Heinen’s. Carolyn Maldonado, wine consultant for the Pepper Pike store, suggests Au Bon Climat Pinor Noir ($21.99) or Argento Malbec ($11.99). She says both are good summer drinking wines and light enough to enjoy in the heat. She adds that the pinot pairs well with beef, whereas the Malbec is a good choice to complement the chiles and cinnamon.

If you’re enjoying the guacamole as an appetizer, she suggests starting with a Torrontes (Crios – $15.99 – is a good choice) or an Alberino or Vinho Verde. They’re all light, great with chips, and are good starter wines to open up the palate.

As previously posted, I sampled the Au Bon Climat pinot at a wine dinner at The Greenhouse Tavern last week. I wholeheartedly agree with Maldonado – that is a fantastic wine and I highly recommend, and look forward to trying with the chef’s brisket.

Friday night we did two of my favorite things: shopped and ate at Momocho. Between Room Service and DuoHome (where I always find the neatest things), and all the ridiculously talented people showcasing their goods at Made in the 216, I was a very happy Clevelander. Danielle DeBoe outdid herself once again. I think this was the best event yetand I walked away with some fun accessories, a shirt and a scarf. Cleveland is really lucky to have her – her dedication and her continued committment to the city. I remember Danielle’s very first 216 event and it’s fun to see how much it has grown and all the new designers, artists, etc. that’s she’s introduced us all to. Congratulations, Danielle!

After dinner, we went with friends to Momocho- the best place for Mexican in Cleveland hands-down. I can’t say it enough, I just love this place. The food, staff and decor – it always puts a smile on my face, and Friday was no different (especially since we sat outside).

I’ve tried numerous items, but it’s the smoked trout and crab chilaquiles that I order the most. I’m crazy about this dish for so many reasons – the layers of flavor, size (I never finish so I always have the perfect breakfast waiting for me when I get up) and because it’s just that good. If you haven’t tried it, you’re missing out.

By the way, I highly recommend you order the cucumber margarita at Momocho, too. You can thank me later (or not if you enjoy too many!).

According to Williams, his sofrito recipe is ideal for this time of year, goes well with white wine or margaritas, is easy to make and is a great side dish for main entrees – especially off the grill.

Sofrito

Latin-style sauce comprised of chopped onions, garlic, green chiles, and fresh herbs; similar consistency to a pesto or recado. Can be used to flavor black beans, braised pork, grilled chicken, seafood or vegetables (green beans, potatoes, cauliflower, asparagus, tomatoes, roasted squash or pumpkin). Yields: 2 cups.

3 bunches cilantro
1 bunch scallion
1 tsp fresh oregano
10 cloves garlic
2 shallots
1 med/large poblano green chile
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup water
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground black pepper

Wash and clean all fresh herbs and trim tops to scallions. Remove stem and seeds from green chile. Place all ingredients into blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Sofrito can be frozen or refrigerated up to 7 days in air-tight container.

Blanch fresh clipped green beans in heavily salted boiling water for 5 minutes. Shock in iced water immediately to stop cooking. Drain and cool. Heat 1 tbl vegetable oil in pan, add 2 cups green beans, silvered shallots and roasted corn kernels. Sauté on high heat until beans blister. Add 1-2 tbls sofrito, toss, and serve. Can sub roasted butternut squash, blanched cauliflower or roasted potatoes for green beans. (also can be used with sautéed onions and peppers as base for black beans, soups, or stews)

This post was sponsored by Heinen’s. When making Williams’ sofrito, Laurie Toth, a certified sommelier who works in the wine department at the Avon store, likes Dos Equis Lager. She says the pale lager is ideal for Cinco de Mayo and compliments Mexican food in general – especially if it’s spicy.  

I’ve seen the looks. I’ve heard the comments. We’ve felt the tension as we walk past your table and our party of three is seated next to you. You’re out for a nice evening and the last thing you want is some screaming kid about to ruin your night out. Or worse, we are seated in your section and you’re stuck waiting on us and left picking up the mess that our daughter will enthusiastically leave behind. Or so you think.

From the time Natalie was three weeks old, we’ve taken her out to dinner with us. She’s been everywhere, from Lola to Momocho to L’Albatros to Valentine’s dinner at Fahrenheit last week (Natalie loved Rocco’s short ribs) — she is well on her way to taking over this blog someday. We decided before she was born that we were going to incorporate her into our life and our routine as much as possible. And we believed the more we exposed her to early on, the better off we’d be in the long run. Granted we’ve only been parents for 14.5 months, but so far so good.

Sure, there are plenty of times when we get a sitter and dine sans toddler, but for the most part, we like keeping the band together. Our goal when dining out as a family is to have an enjoyable night out and maybe make a new memory; not to ruin your evening in the process. So when Natalie is with us, we plan ahead so that we can avoid being that family. We eat early (last week at Fahrenheit we made rezzies for 4 and were out by 4:45 before the rush), we ask for the check as soon as our food arrives (you never know when the meal could be to go), we have snacks handy (and when we leave we  make sure all goldfish are accounted for, it’s not a server’s job to clean up after our kid – I was a server once and am very consciousness of this) and always bring table toppers so she can be a neat little diner. And if Natalie should cry, and it’s one of those cries, we’re outta there in 60 seconds flat (we have an escape plan and to date have only had to execute it twice). Like I said, we do not and will not ruin anyone else’s meal.

I will say this though, most of the looks we’ve had have been from fellow customers, but once we’re well into our meal and they see  how well-behaved and happy-go-lucky our daughter is, and just how ridiculously cute her chubby cheeks are, people are won over. And for the most part, restaurants are extremely accommodating and welcoming. Parallax encouraged us to bring our daughter, the staff at Lola oohed and aahed, Greenhouse Tavern and Momocho are simply fantastic for families and when Natalie met Rocco Whalen, he looked at our daughter with a big smile and told her how excited he was to cook for her for the next 20 plus years. And we know he meant it.

Our daughter truly is a foodie in the making. Saying she loves food is an understatement. We have yet to find anything she won’t eat – from Indian to Thai to Mexican to Italian, she’s an equal opportunity eater. And boy can she put it away. Just this morning at Vine & Bean, she enjoyed a plate of waffles for breakfast and fruit (I was a mean mommy and refused to share my pecan-crusted bacon). And at B Spot, she ate half a Plain Jane burger and helped us finish a shake. But her favorite dish just might be short ribs of any kind (the kid’s got good taste). If we order them out or make at home, look out – she will throw down her bib and fight you for every last bite.

So if you’re part senior citizen like us and are eating out before 5 and see us coming, don’t worry – I guarantee you won’t even know we’re there. And if you’re a family with little ones and have been sticking to the chains when dining out as a family for fear of what might happen, give one of our many local places a shot. With a few modifications, you can have a great family night out – and a much better meal in the process (and pay just the same, sometimes less – hello Lolita, Bar Symon, GHT, Sunday Supper at Momocho just to name a few). And if your kids are older than mine, you may not even have to alter a thing. Happy eating!